Fuse blowing. Help.

RSD7a

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My lovely new van (Devon on a Boxer), is blowing a 10A fuse on one of the habitation lighting circuits. Replace it and it blows instantly. It's a 6- 7 hour round trip to Devon Conversions in County Durham and I'd rather not do that if at all possible. However, where do I start? I imagine it's a needle in a haystack job. Should I even try? Electrics definitely not my strong point.
 
My lovely new van (Devon on a Boxer), is blowing a 10A fuse on one of the habitation lighting circuits. Replace it and it blows instantly. It's a 6- 7 hour round trip to Devon Conversions in County Durham and I'd rather not do that if at all possible. However, where do I start? I imagine it's a needle in a haystack job. Should I even try? Electrics definitely not my strong point.
You have a short circuit, try removing all of the lights then see if it still blows. If not put them back one by one to see where the fault lies. Look out for water ingress anywhere. The good news is dead faults are easy to find for an electrician, should be an easy fix.
 
Thanks. That's v encouraging on one level. However, it's not the situation where there's an easy bulb to pull. I can't yet see how to even disconnect these little babies, each with a low ambient light and spotlight.
IMG_20250513_134234956.jpg
 
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Are the lights turned on when the fuse blows if not then the fault will be in the circuit.
If this is the case I would contact the dealer. But to remove these lights unscrew them, and you should see an inline connector. Simply unplug them. Also the fuse may only blow when certain lights are on, if so you know the rest are ok. If it’s the wiring it could be a compressed cable, and this can happen when fitting the light, look for any signs of compression on the cable when removing the light. Simply removing the compression should solve your issue.
 
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Look dangly, id bin them and fit flush led units which are easy to change bulbs in, see 3 up front.
van to front.jpg
 
If all the lights are turned off and fuse blows, then the short is in wiring loom and may well be a complete pita to get to, I'd be planning a trip to the NE.
 
If all the lights are turned off and fuse blows, then the short is in wiring loom and may well be a complete pita to get to, I'd be planning a trip to the NE.
Yes finding the fault will be relatively easy, but getting to it may be difficult.
 
Yes finding the fault will be relatively easy, but getting to it may be difficult.
sorting out problems with pre-existing wiring can sometimes be a nightmare :( My own motorhome has some kind of problem with the cabling from the leisure battery +ve to the Sargent unit and it is not possible to access the cabling at all to investigate it more than a few inches before it disappears into a void. :rolleyes:
I am currently in the process of running a replacement +ve and -ve cable via a different accessible route - but having to remove trim and strip down bits and pieces in order to have it hidden away. On the plus side, it is an opportunity to upgrade the cable gauge to something more suitable (y)
 
Has any work been carried out in the van at all? Very easy to put a screw in somewhere and hit a cable.
If you can borrow or buy a cheap multimeter with a tone function on the low ohms setting, basically a continuity tester with an audible indicator, with this you could connect the meter and leave it beeping while you jiggle stuff about, thumping walls and panels etc.
I'd remove the light fittings and check for trapped wires behind them before making a several hundred mile round trip. Good luck 👍
 
Speak to Devon before you do anything.

I assume the conversion is covered by a warranty from them.

They may be amenable to covering the cost of an auto electrician. In any case it will cost plenty to drive to Co Durham and back. It may be cheaper to visit a local and reputable motorhome service establishment for help and pay...

Where are you based?
 
Speak to Devon before you do anything.

I assume the conversion is covered by a warranty from them.

They may be amenable to covering the cost of an auto electrician. In any case it will cost plenty to drive to Co Durham and back. It may be cheaper to visit a local and reputable motorhome service establishment for help and pay...

Where are you based?
Had to have a cooling unit replaced by Dometic South, we combined it with a trip to the area, even when it was in the workshop for the day we just took the bus into Tewkesbury. Our time lost due to repairs was an hour or so. If it requires a day or more for work to be done, that's a different matter.
Just remembered, we wanted to look at a van not far north of Devon Conversions, combined it with a trip to Beamish and North Pennines area.
 
If the Vendor doesn't want to stump up for your trip to Durham, but is happy to use a local autoelectrician, Dayl's Autoelectrics at Glenrothes is very good. He sorted out Brunhilde when there was a parasitic drain and a backfeed from Leisure to Vehicle Battery, even when Burstner refused to supply a Schematic Diagram 'to protect the intellectual property of our partners and Dealers [the latter said 'pull the fuse and see what that does ...']. He traced the fault a circuit at a time, and have had no further problems! DM Autoelectrics Glenrothes

Daryl was used by the local Fiat Professional Agent 'to solve problems we can't deal with' - the difference was, Fiat were charging £90+VAT per hour in Nov 2021, whereas Daryl was charging £75+VAT!

Steve
 
Has any work been carried out in the van at all? Very easy to put a screw in somewhere and hit a cable.
If you can borrow or buy a cheap multimeter with a tone function on the low ohms setting, basically a continuity tester with an audible indicator, with this you could connect the meter and leave it beeping while you jiggle stuff about, thumping walls and panels etc.
I'd remove the light fittings and check for trapped wires behind them before making a several hundred mile round trip. Good luck 👍
...mmm. screws. you may be onto something there Merl. Put a couple through laminate flooring when putting a divider into a long under-seat storage area, which also houses some electric bits. Oh dear
 
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...mmm. screws. you may be onto something there Merl. Put a couple through laminate flooring when putting a divider into a long under-seat storage area, which also houses some electric bits. Oh dear
reminds me of a conversion I ran some electrics for ..... had to run cables front to back along the floor (not a great idea but customers choice!) and I told the owner to make sure he made a note of where they were before he laid the floor down. week or so later got a call ... screws through cables! luckily I thought it might happen so I ran a spare cable at the time so told him to use that one instead :)
 
...mmm. screws. you may be onto something there Merl. Put a couple through laminate flooring when putting a divider into a long under-seat storage area, which also houses some electric bits. Oh dear

Still might not be the end of the world.

If you can identify which wire is affected by a continuity test you may be able to use the faulty cable to pull through a new one providing the screw hasn't grabbed the cable. Remove the divider before attempting.
 
With all these cables in bad places and problems with factory built vans i now am glade i built my own, along with the money i saved doing so, 12 years running for 6 grand cant be all bad.
 
With all these cables in bad places and problems with factory built vans i now am glade i built my own, along with the money i saved doing so, 12 years running for 6 grand cant be all bad.
All I can say is that I'm happy for you Trev in your smugness.

...
Meanwhile, returning to the problem I'm trying to solve .... I've a bad feeling in the pit of my stomach.

Getting down to the nitty gritty. IF a self tapping screw has hit a wire could removing the screw sort things out. Does the fact that it's shorting mean I've split the wire. It's under a probably glued down laminate floor. Aaargghh.
(I know all this presupposes this IS the issue. But the timing of my putting the divider up and the fault occuring certainly points to this direction. Only two f'n screws in the floor too.)

(I'm unlikely to get back to investigating for a few days as I'm full time (with Mrs RSD7a) with grandchildren while parents have a break.)
 
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Getting down to the nitty gritty. IF a self tapping screw has hit a wire could removing the screw sort things out. Does the fact that it's shorting mean I've split the wire. It's under a probably glued down laminate floor. Aaargghh.
(I know all this presupposes this IS the issue. But the timing of my putting the divider up and the fault occuring certainly points to this direction. Only two f'n screws in the floor too.)
Yes it can, when fitting alarm systems we regularly put a staple through a cable. The metal staple would act as a bridge between positive and negative. Only once in thirty years did removing the staple not solve the issue. I would try removing the screws and see how you get on. Possibly depending on the size of the screw things may be different here though, but you would be unfortunate if this did not solve your issue. But if you can access the cable it would be better if you could have a look at it and effect a repair if required.
 
With all these cables in bad places and problems with factory built vans i now am glade i built my own, along with the money i saved doing so, 12 years running for 6 grand cant be all bad.
Sorry Trev what do you mean bad places, they have to be run somewhere, and putting screws anywhere in a van or even your home carries risks. I am sure the cables have been ran appropriately by a well respected company like Devon, but unfortunately the poster may have accidentally damaged the cable by inserting a screw where a well run cable has been placed. Yes if you have wired your own van, and know exactly where all of your cable has been run that’s advantageous, but someone could buy your van and do as the poster has done, would you then say your cables were badly run.


Most of us don’t have the required skillset or in some cases the health to do our own conversion. Speaking personally, I have some of the skills required, but not the inclination, nor do I think I could achieve the standards I have in my Rapido. Yes you save money, feel a sense of achievement once you have completed your conversion, but it’s not for everyone. Perhaps I am fortunate being able to afford a factory built van, and perhaps you are fortunate having the knowledge to do what you have done Trev.
 
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