Fridge Servicing

Sean

Guest
Hi Guys,

my little three way works 'ok' on mains/12v and barely on gas. Given that nothing had been serviced in the motorhome for atleast three years previous to my purchase - I'm guessing the fridge might need a 'service'.

However my question is, are there serviceable parts on 3 way fridges that will increase it's efficiency (e.g like a household fridge needs to be regassed every so often) and if so, can anybody recommend someone within striking distance (2 hours) of London to perform this?

Thanks in advance!

Sean
 
Hi Sean,
I get a habitation check done every 12 months just to be on the safe side. Last year I needed a new igniter for my fridge, which from what limited knowledge I have, can get furred up over time, which obviously makes it less efficient and harder to ignite.
I can recommend the guy I use, but we are down in Gloucestershire so a bit far for you.
Regards Mark.
 
Ammonia Gas Absorbtion Fridge

If it is a stadard Ammonia gas absorbtion fridge there is no repairing the gas system as it is highly expensive. I worked for various manufacturers/retail, all had a policy of scrapping the fridge, replacing or refund if the gas escaped. Electrolux were the only ones that offered such repairs some years ago.

The fridge has no motor and the gas simply is moved around by heat making it ideal for multi fuel variations. 240/12 v operate a simple electric heating element, gas simply a small burner system that can be adjusted by flame height to allow limited control, plus flame safety and ignition. Electric elements are available as well as most gas components,

The following rule applies only to gas absorbtion fridges, they can get silted up over time, for a few of them, turning them upside down can shift some silt and they will function again. If this is tried on an ordinary fridge it destroys the whole system as oil in the motor/compresser will travel through the system blocking it. Thermostats are only normally fitted to standard fridges, unless you have the large domestic absorbtion fridge and are not normally fitted to common camping 3 way type.
 
Hi Mark,

my company has an office down in Bristol so Gloucestershire isn't out of the order - can you please pass me through his details?

Cheers
Sean
 
Electrolux RM212

Thanks for the great replies guys.

I just wanted to add some more info - My fridge is an electrolux RM212 and the freezer gets cold but nothing else. Am I right in assuming that the fins that are on the outside of the freezer unit are suppose to cool the fridge?

Cheers
Sean
 
Hi Sean,

I just gave Tom Pritchard a quick bell and he is familiar with the RM212 fridge.

You can contact him on 07779314016. He did mention he is away shortly for three weeks to Canada, so I'd call him sooner rather than later.

Regards Mark.
 
Ammonia Gas Absorbtion Fridge

The temperature in the fridge is key for establishing that its working properly so dropping a thermometer in and look for a temp around 5 degrees. Domestic fridges commonly fail to achieve an average during the day because its door is continually opened. The freezer section is basic perhaps would not freeze all over internally but if you get around -12 you should be happy, if it is a one star or less.

This type require manual defrosting normally every week so to much ice building up should not be the case, average temperture is key!

There are various part suppliers (usually one in every city that supplies parts to the trade) you can find locally, even Curry's will supply certain spares, maybe even a good camping shop. You can work on gas appliances yourself and are not required to use a qualified engineer, only if a third person is involved.

Before considering parts or engineers there are various ones on ebay in good condition, some even guaranteed, so it may be cheaper to replace it to get the same model. You can change panels etc to match you interior, the choice is yours but look at all options before opening your wallet!
 
propane powered fridges - old style

Evening all!

It's been more than a year since this question was asked ...

What's the state of play now on the old style ammonia filled gas fridges? I've asked in a couple of specialist gas / refrigeration places and with much shaking of heads was told they're a lost cause unless you can get the "turn it upside down for a few days" trick to work.

Any body know any different? Is anybody re-filling them and replacing corroded pipework on them now?

thanks

Mild Red
 
I've had a couple of RM212 fridges - the older one was on my 1991 narrow boat, and it was still going strong after 18 years.

I think they're pretty much unbreakable.

The only things I ever did with that fridge were to replace the piezo igniter, and clean the flue periodically.

I have a newer Electrolux in my 1999 'van, bought last November, and it works very well.

By my reckoning they're excellent.
 
So are all gas fridges ammonia type? Mine stopped working on gas - then started again for a few months, it has now stopped again - the red switch on mine shoudl click whilst you hold down the gas button - but it is not clicking. There is gas getting to the fridge as I checked that, and it works on electric. Any ideas what the issue may be?
 
tomphillips said:
So are all gas fridges ammonia type? Mine stopped working on gas - then started again for a few months, it has now stopped again - the red switch on mine shoudl click whilst you hold down the gas button - but it is not clicking. There is gas getting to the fridge as I checked that, and it works on electric. Any ideas what the issue may be?
Click to expand...

I think you'll find it needs a new piezo igniter.

It should be a DIY fix if you can get a new one, and you can remove the fridge ...
 
Sean said:
Hi Guys,

my little three way works 'ok' on mains/12v and barely on gas. Given that nothing had been serviced in the motorhome for atleast three years previous to my purchase - I'm guessing the fridge might need a 'service'.

Sean
Click to expand...

I posted this last year, and I think it solved the problem of the fridge not working on gas.

Craig
you've got to dismantle the burner assembly, then the remove the jet from it, then throw the jet away and replace with new one.
Remove bottom fridge vent.
Remove the wind sheild from around the burner assembly, this will be held in position by 1 or 2 small screws, and will require tugging a bit, but it's only thin tin and will take this. Then remove the union nut between the gas inlet pipe and the 'square' section assembly. The gas jet is 'held' in position between the end of the gas pipe and the burner. Then disconnect the small cable (gas ignition cable) and the thermocouple line (thin bendy metal pipe). You'll wonder were all the muck comes from during this dismantling !
Give the burner a good banging and poking and cleaning with a pin
Then take the top fridge vent off.
Remove upper section(s) of flue, these are usually quite loose and don't need to be gas tight. You'll see / feel a thin steel wire which is hooked over the vertical flue lowest pipe, pull this up. A 'swirl plate' is attached to this, and will certainly be covered in carbon This needs cleaning till it shines. Then get a flue brush or something to clean / push through the remaining length of flue. I always put a sheet of white paper a the bottom of the flue to see how much rust, sh*te, etc falls down.
Then put it all back. I'm convinced that this will cure your problem.

Let us know, but don't do half a job, do it all, it's straightforward !



hope that helps (and it's free)

Allen
 
wints said:
I posted this last year, and I think it solved the problem of the fridge not working on gas.

Craig
you've got to dismantle the burner assembly, then the remove the jet from it, then throw the jet away and replace with new one.
Remove bottom fridge vent.
Remove the wind sheild from around the burner assembly, this will be held in position by 1 or 2 small screws, and will require tugging a bit, but it's only thin tin and will take this. Then remove the union nut between the gas inlet pipe and the 'square' section assembly. The gas jet is 'held' in position between the end of the gas pipe and the burner. Then disconnect the small cable (gas ignition cable) and the thermocouple line (thin bendy metal pipe). You'll wonder were all the muck comes from during this dismantling !
Give the burner a good banging and poking and cleaning with a pin
Then take the top fridge vent off.
Remove upper section(s) of flue, these are usually quite loose and don't need to be gas tight. You'll see / feel a thin steel wire which is hooked over the vertical flue lowest pipe, pull this up. A 'swirl plate' is attached to this, and will certainly be covered in carbon This needs cleaning till it shines. Then get a flue brush or something to clean / push through the remaining length of flue. I always put a sheet of white paper a the bottom of the flue to see how much rust, sh*te, etc falls down.
Then put it all back. I'm convinced that this will cure your problem.

Let us know, but don't do half a job, do it all, it's straightforward !



hope that helps (and it's free)

Allen
Click to expand...

Not sure I like the 'poke a pin' in the jet, more likely to damage it than clean it :eek: There are some specialist cleaning agents that you can purchase, just soak the jet in them for 30 mins.

Also whilst this is generally good advise you should note that any work on Gas should be carried out by a specialist, DIY will almost certainly invalidate your insurance and or warranty.

Sorry don't mean to be a pain but I thought it should be pointed out :)
 
biggirafe said:
Not sure I like the 'poke a pin' in the jet, more likely to damage it than clean it :eek: There are some specialist cleaning agents that you can purchase, just soak the jet in them for 30 mins.

Also whilst this is generally good advise you should note that any work on Gas should be carried out by a specialist, DIY will almost certainly invalidate your insurance and or warranty.

Sorry don't mean to be a pain but I thought it should be pointed out :)
Click to expand...

The advise was to buy a new jet, and clean the burner with a pin ... :)

It is also advisable to check the gap for the piezo igniter whilst it's in bits. If it isn't sparking consistently, it may be that the gap is too big.

I have done all this on my narrow boat fridge, and it worked a treat.

It sounds way more complicated than it actually is.

If there's a warranty issue don't do it. And check carefully that all gas unions are tight.
 
and another thing... I fitted a couple of computer pcu fans into the top vent (if you're lucky you can find them with thermal speed controllers) controlled by a switch by the fridge. Makes a big difference to the temperature... and is of course, free. :D
 
tomphillips said:
So are all gas fridges ammonia type?
Click to expand...

No - some of the big rigs work on a Lithium Bromide /Water combination. I understand there is a difference between the chemicals in the old RM type and modern three-ways, but I can't track down what the new mix is.

If you want a bit of background info then have a look at this on how a gas fridge works

Mild Red
 
Electrolux RM212 3-way fridge

Hi We`ve just had the above fridge gas system replaced,it was working on 12volt & mains,but not gas.It was repaired at Welsh Caravan Centre Blaenarvon,check them out on the net. as they keep a hugh stock of spares for all things `motorcaravan`& will post, as well as carrying out repairs,& are very helpful.
 
Mastodon said:
and another thing... I fitted a couple of computer pcu fans into the top vent (if you're lucky you can find them with thermal speed controllers) controlled by a switch by the fridge. Makes a big difference to the temperature... and is of course, free. :D
Click to expand...

I did this on a boat once upon a time. It worked really well, and you can but 12v DC fans at Maplin and the like for very little.
 
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