Fridge cooling fans

[Neckender]

Today I've fitted a fridge cooling fan, which I purchased from cak tanks, only got to connect to batteries tomorrow.
the techy details are:
current draw: manual amp/hr 0.25
auto amp/hr 0.35

what size fuse would you recommend as I was thinking of fitting a 500 milli amp as fitted to central heating boilers.
Cheers

John.

Ps fitted this because last year it was that hot in France one day that the fridge stopped working and I had to remove my fridge vents from the side to try and cool it down.

 

[ivecotrucker]

Presumably the difference between the 'Manual' & 'Auto' amperage is due to the current requirement of the (auto) sensor ?. 0.5 Amp should be OK but depends on the initial fan startup load, which will likely exceed the running requirement figures quoted so a 0.5 A fuse might expire after a while, possibly !.

Interesting idea, let us know please if fridge performance improves. After our various compressor fridge travails (see previous compressor threads, Oldtech (where are you now ?)/Ivecotrucker etc.) I greatly increased the (natural) fridge venting area last autumn, way beyond Mfg's spec, & got an immediate huge improvement in performance & reduction in current consumption (compressor fridge, not gas/3 way).

 

[Deleted member 3011]

I presume the fan came with instructions showing where to mount the fan in relation to the pipework - because if a fan is fitted incorrectly, it can sometimes make the fridge less efficient.

 

[Teutone]

I fitted on last year when we went to Itally with 35-40deg C.

To be honest, I am not impressed. Didn't seem to make a huge difference and the thing is LOUD.
In the night I had to disconnect it!

The fridge will still only be able to cool down by 20 deg in relation to ambient. If the air you blow over the cooling fins of the fridge is still too warm, the fridege will still not cool. There will be an improvement, but don't expect miracles. Too hot is too hot.

 

[Deleted member 207]

Have a look at Installing RV Fridges - Caravan and Motorhome Books which has some good details on how to setup the baffles so that the cooling fins on the back of the fridge get cooled. Website is Australian so getting 3 way fridge to work in 40C is not uncommon - in fact its far too common at times.

 

[Teutone]

Have a look at Installing RV Fridges - Caravan and Motorhome Books which has some good details on how to setup the baffles so that the cooling fins on the back of the fridge get cooled. Website is Australian so getting 3 way fridge to work in 40C is not uncommon - in fact its far too common at times.

One important point in this (very good) read: T-rated fridge! I bet none of the fridges sold over here are "t-rated". The usual 3 way fridge has a cooling capacity of -20deg C versus anmbient.

30deg C ambient temperature -20deg C cooling capacity = your beer will be 10deg C

Of course if the rear ventilation is compromised one can improve this. But no matter how many fans or baffles you add, the fridge will only cool down by 20 deg C.

Keeping an ice pack in the bottom of the fridge is helping to reduce the loss of cold air when opening the door. Kepp a second ice pack in the freezer and swap them when required.