Fitting an awning rail

mike w

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I am struggling to fit an aluminium awning rail to our mh. I have managed to fit a No.4 screw through but have to counter bore the opening as the screw head is wider than the opening. I thought the less rough edges I produce the less drag I will have pulling the awning through.
So the question is do I use the minimum screws required to hold it in place while allowing Sikaflex adhesive to take all the strain.
Our is there a trick I am missing such as grinding all the screw heads to a small diameter!!!!!
Photo attached is just a mock up while I try different screw sizes.

Thanks Mike
IMG_20200228_173939.jpg
 
n brown said:
buy a flanged rail like this , and use self-drilling screws to fix

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Campe...469430?hash=item3653b2eeb6:g:nTIAAOSweMFdb-8A my local caravan shop sells it in 10' lengths. if you're fitting unflanged , use 3.5 screws and sikaflex
Click to expand...
I would go along with the suggestion of getting a flanged rail, but would recommend the Fiamma one. They are supplied in lengths of either 3 Metres or 4 Metres so much better to fit than individual or multiple strips if you need a long length (I have the Fiamma 4M one and also another short strip of around 40m or so to give me the required length.)
 
Just make sure its fastened to something other than just the aluminum skin. You can get a lot of pull on the ends and it will just pull off unless it is very well fastened. @trevskoda looks like his is fastened to something substantial and not just thin skin. MHs with aluminum sides are normally glued to a frame. If you are lucky you may find a frame to screw to. It will need some sort of none setting mastic behind it. Screws should have mastic round the thread and then screwed in place.
 
QFour said:
Just make sure its fastened to something other than just the aluminum skin. You can get a lot of pull on the ends and it will just pull off unless it is very well fastened. @trevskoda looks like his is fastened to something substantial and not just thin skin. MHs with aluminum sides are normally glued to a frame. If you are lucky you may find a frame to screw to. It will need some sort of none setting mastic behind it. Screws should have mastic round the thread and then screwed in place.
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Yes my alloy skin is fixed to stainless frame which my rivets went through .
van c.jpg
 
Thanks for all you replies. To bring the post back on topic the question I have is, "screwing through the narrow channel". I do not have room for a flanged version as I am screwing up into the Fiamma housing, the part fixed to the body. When ever I try to counter bore the opening I am left with burs on the inside. May end up taking it to work and using a vertical milling machine. Just seems a long winded exercise.
 
The rail you are trying to use is the best one if you are tying to have a continuous rail around curves. First drill the hole in the rail. Then using a dremel with a carbide bit, cut clearance for the head of the screw. Use the enlarged hole to countersink the first hole. As mentioned make sure most of your screws are into something substantial.
 
Would this type of counter sink bit slide along and work without damaging the rail edge
tinyurl.com

Countersunk Drills 7Pack, MOHOO HSS Countersink Drill Bit Set DIN 335C 90 Degree | eBay

Note: If the countersink is used on a hand-held drill, first use the twist drill to drill and position, and then use the countersink, there will be no shaking and the positioning will be inaccurate. - HSS countersinks can be machined on steel, wood and plastic plates.
tinyurl.com
 
witzend said:
Would this type of counter sink bit slide along and work without damaging the rail edge
tinyurl.com

Countersunk Drills 7Pack, MOHOO HSS Countersink Drill Bit Set DIN 335C 90 Degree | eBay

Note: If the countersink is used on a hand-held drill, first use the twist drill to drill and position, and then use the countersink, there will be no shaking and the positioning will be inaccurate. - HSS countersinks can be machined on steel, wood and plastic plates.
tinyurl.com
Click to expand...
You can use a much larger drill bit to countersink at slow speed and only a couple of turns should do it,remember to use marine grade 316 stainless screws only .
 
I think they use much smaller screws to attach these rails but lots of them screwed into timber. If you are not very careful you will damage the rail. Drill holes using a drill stand and sharpen a drill to the correct angle to countersink the holes.
 
trevskoda said:
You can use a much larger drill bit to countersink at slow speed
Click to expand...
If you look at the picture you can see doing thats what's causing his problem the bit is cutting the edge of the rail one of these in link he'd be able to slide up from the end without causing any damage to the rail
 
I have a Fiamma awning which we occasionally use but prefer our air awning - I used the same rail in your photo and glued it with Sikaflex immediately below the awning. Has withstood plenty of strong winds. Cheap set of steps out of the Range to get up to attach awning completed the job. Because it is just below the Fiamma mounts, which are bolted through the side, no flex in the wall. Bob
 
Thanks Bobj808, that's the sort of info I was after. I will be using countersunk M3 machine screws and sikaflex for good measure. If yours hold with just sikaflex I am onto a winner.
I will post a few pictures later of the problems encountered and solutions found.
 
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