By economical do you mean cheap?Hi
Can anyone recommend an economical, preferably folding, electric bike?
Thanks
The Raleigh has a 250w battery which is a relatively small capacity. A replacement or spare battery of the same capacity costs around £300. Also caliper brakes front and back.
The Volt Metro has a 504w Panasonic battery as standard, a Bafang motor, and Tektro hydraulic disc brakes front and rear.
So add the cost of a second battery to the Raleigh if you do a lot of miles or cycle on hilly terain, and the extra cost of the premium brakes of around £175 which work well in all weather rain or shine unlike calipers, and the Metro is not so expensive if you can pickup one for £1500 as against the Raleigh for £1000.
I do a lot of miles using my Metro almost every day at home or away and take it on on day out train trips as it fits when folded on train luggage racks so no issues pre booking cycle carriage. In the 10 years of ownership of the previous Metro I have had 2 rear wheel rim rebuilds as the rear caliper brake on the old model wore the rim to the point of collapse twice. The front wheel had a disc brake so no rim wear. The 20" wheels do more rotations than larger wheeled bikes when braking so faster caliper brake friction rim wear. They maybe last 8000 miles depending on pad hardness. My experience anyway. Maybe that's why Volt switched to disc brakes front and rear on their latest version.
Due to hilly terrain where we live a 250w battery would not work for us. Another thing to bear in mind is that you may think you are only going to use the bike for mild use when motorhoming. However when you ride an ebike you will become hooked and will want to cycle everywhere as you can do more miles without getting exhausted or working up a sweat, even on hills. You can of course carry them in the back of a car if you can fold the rear seats down and have a rear hatch so handy for day trips out in the area.
Really it's horses for courses and if the Raleigh works for you then go with it. Having a ebike is better than not having one!
Whoops my mistake. Raleigh has 260wh battery v Volt 504wh battery just to clear things up.
And therein lies the 'problem' with these types of Ebikes, I too had an Ebike with a cadence sensor, quite good, but an Ebike with a torque sensor is much better, add in a crank motor as well, and cycling takes another step forward. These all come at a cost of cause, but if you are doing a lot of cycling it's worth it IMO.I'm a reasonably fit 75kg rider but generally use normal or high settings as I like to cycle a bit quicker than the low setting assistance permits.
Cadence sensors are OK, but as you pointed out in the earlier post they have limitations which can impact range. I did have a Ebike with a cadence sensor, and covered a couple of thousand miles on it, the bike I have now has a torque sensor (as well as crank motor) I usually only use low power on the flat, and it will deliver that low power right up to the legal limit. The other plus is that at very low speed when say maneuvering around 'obstacles' the power is directly proportional to the effort put in, making it much more stable.Not many folding bikes have crank motors. Those that do are £2500 plus. Agree though that for mountain biking on random trails crank motors are a must to give you control at a slow crawl. For road biking hub motors with cadence sensors are perfectly OK.
Yes and no, with a cadence sensor the same power is applied throughout the speed range, on some bikes the power is limited by the setting so in low power the motor will only get you to a certain speed (depending on conditions) then it runs out of puff, to go slower you put in less effort to slow down but you use the same amount of power, for many cadence sensor bikes the 'power' setting isn't that at all, it just sets the speed at which the power cuts. On a torque sensor bike you set the amount of assistance the motor adds to your effort, at top speed with maximum power this will make very little difference, but at lower speeds and lower power settings this makes a huge difference in range.Regardless of assistance type (crank or hub) surely the more assistance you require from the battery the shorter the range over which the battery will offer assistance. Using a higher level of assistance means I go faster for a given amount of human effort. But that assistance is provided over a shorter distance.
Agree crank drive is more progressive in the assistance offered whereas hub drive provides maximum assistance from standstill which tails off as you speed up.
But range and the level of assistance set is surely inversely proportional regardless of the mechanism by which it is offered?
Fact is though crank drives are not available within the budget constraint limits.