Buying pre-owned motorhome

cyclops2

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Locksmiths story is a bit worrying. I always thought that buying from a major dealer might be a bit more expensive but gave you peace of mind that faults would be resolved. I am buying from major dealer in Scotland a 1998 Duetto. Just been put back to Friday the 13th. Not a good omen!! I am getting a full AA inspection before purchase. It is costing over £200 but I hope it will be worth it. Has anyone else had this done and was it worthwhile?
 
Locksmiths story is a bit worrying. I always thought that buying from a major dealer might be a bit more expensive but gave you peace of mind that faults would be resolved. I am buying from major dealer in Scotland a 1998 Duetto. Just been put back to Friday the 13th. Not a good omen!! I am getting a full AA inspection before purchase. It is costing over £200 but I hope it will be worth it. Has anyone else had this done and was it worthwhile?

Hi,

AA inspection will only be the mechanical (vehicle) and not the habitation side.

AA will write 'war and peace' on a 12 year old vehicle and pick up every niggle to safeguard themselves so be prepared, it may sound a lot worse than what it really is!

Peter
 
i totally agree i think you are wasteing your money, take a 12yr old motor for an mot and they make some allowances with its age the AA will treat it as new in their inspection and mention every detail and scare you to death,and like pete says they have not checked the habitation side and electric's,charging ect.
contact the stealership and ask for the last owner details
and speak to them,they will probable be mature people and tell you every thing about the van (sh!te will i get wrong for assuming all motorhomers are mature people )if the stealership is honest the will give you their details
 
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A habitation area checklist should be something that we could easily develop with all the knowlegde available here. There must be one on the www but I'm too lazy to Google. Theres probably a need for an integrated campervan and coachbuilt checklist.

I'd start at the top and work downwards. Here's my effort to be added to........

Watertight roof, walls, floor, windows and vents. No rotten smells. Look for lots of silicone sealant at joints and the roof gutter.
All lights work on battery and mains power.
Stove, fridge, water heater, space heater work on diesel/gas/12v/240V or a combination of.
Water pump(s) work on all taps.
Shower door does not leak.
Bench tops not peeling.
Sinks sealed into benchtops. Look under all benchtops looking for rot.
Electrolux/Dometic absorbtion type fridges must be fitted correctly to work - no space on either side, rear of fridge baffled with a top and bottom vent to direct heat out of the vehicle and away from the fridge.
Check flooring in all cupboards.
Gas bottles/tanks not older than 10 years or have a new test.
Beds rollout/fold easily.
No mould under mattresses.
Blinds work.
Windows and vents open and close and lock.
Underneath - waste tank taps work.
Toilet cassette (if fitted) can be removed.
Toilet dump valve works (if fitted).
Water tank fill point OK and clean - no smell of diesel.
Door locks.
Appliances that run on gas have exhaust vents away from any window that opens or has an interlock on the window to prevent gassing.

In general look for an interior fitout that has rounded cutouts for doors and draws from single pieces of wood/ply/plastic as these will be much stronger and lighter than square framed cupboards.
 

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