Blowing Fuse

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Hi..we have a Burstner Nexxo and having problems with the 15amp fuse blowing which is on a 12v permanent live feed, the circuit feeds the fridge, awning light and the interior entrance light, the fuse can be fitted and works fine for all the above but it seems after driving for a few minutes the fuse pops, (it can then be replaced and if the van dosen't move all ok) have wiggled wires here, there and everywhere thinking maybe a loose connection somewhere but nothing? The 15 amp fuse is in reserve 4 slot rated at 25amp...anyone with electrical knowledge help please..
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Yes the fridge only runs on 12v when engine running, if fridge on battery without engine running alarm from fridge goes off..
 
What appears to have happened is the socket on your fuse box has loosened.
But I see from your photograph that you have spare sockets. So a simple solution would be to transfer to another socket and use this. It would be advisable to remove all power from the fuse box before gaining entry to the inside of the fuse box. It’s a simple case of removing a single positive connection from the faulty socket and connecting to a spare.
 
As jagmanx implied the fridge could well draw only a few amps when fridge on gas or EHU but over 15a when fridge is in 12v.
This fits your description of the problem.

Has the problem as always happened (or the van is new to you) ?
Simple question if reserve 4 is "rated" 25 amp, why are you using a 15 amp fuse?
Have you modified the wiring in any way? Please don't just fit a larger fuse unless you understand basic electrics.

If you have a handbook for fridge please check current draw, otherwise try and find handbook on net. (or check the label for detals)
N.B. if the book/lable quotes power in watts just divide wattage by voltage to get amps (e.g 60watt / 12 volt = 5amp).
 
Had the van from new and have had the problem for a few months, when we had the problem last year it took a while to identify the faulty fuse as we were on a site in Yorkshire, problem is I can't remember what fuse was in place and whether it was replaced with a 15amp because that was all we had (stupid I Know) ideally someone with a Burstner Nexxo with the same fuse box could check what fuse they have...anyone?? please.
 
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Apologies I miss understood your post.

My thetford fridge draws 10amps when mobile.
I would have thought 15 amp would be ok.
The fridge only draws full current when travelling, hence your problem.
When the fuse blows is it broken, or has it vaporised.?
If broken possibly a 20a fuse may prevent this.
But be careful if fitting a larger fuse.
If vaporised it would suggest a serious short circuit.
The short circuit could be due to a fault in your fridge,
Creating a short circuit. Hope this helps,
 
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The 12 volt fridge element could be suspect, causing a spike in voltage. Try checking the connections, you should get access by removing the lower grill.

Alternatively, if you have a manual selector knob on your fridge, set it to gas when you are travelling and see if the fuse still blows.

Somewhere at home I have the full schematic wiring diagram, I will see if I can find it to check what 'reserve 4 ' is for.
 
Thanks for all replys, much appreciated....the fuse when blown has a black mark around the break wouldn't say it was 'vaporised'...I think it needs a bigger fuse but a bit wary as don't want to fry the wiring...just need some one with Burstner Nexxo with same Elektroblock (EBL99) and see what fuse is in reserve 4 to put my mind at rest...cheers all
 
Warwickwelsh said:
Thanks for all replys, much appreciated....the fuse when blown has a black mark around the break wouldn't say it was 'vaporised'...I think it needs a bigger fuse but a bit wary as don't want to fry the wiring...just need some one with Burstner Nexxo with same Elektroblock (EBL99) and see what fuse is in reserve 4 to put my mind at rest...cheers all
Click to expand...

That’s your fuse box,


what model of fridge do you have
 
From what you have described a 15a fuse blowing but not being vaporised would suggest an overload on the fuse. In my experience a dead short always induces such a large current as to vaporise a 12v fuse. So I would try a 25a fuse and see how you get on. If there is a dead short in either the circuit or in the fridge a 25a fuse will blow anyhow before any damage is done. After driving for say 15-30 minutes see if the fuse is still holding, and check the fridge that the fridge is ok. No smell of burning. I have checked and reserve 4 is 25amp.
 
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Should be off down Devon/Cornwall tomorrow, (all depending on the weather in the morning) so will try a larger fuse at some point..
 
Warwickwelsh said:
Should be off down Devon/Cornwall tomorrow, (all depending on the weather in the morning) so will try a larger fuse at some point..
Click to expand...

Another point.
The fact that the fuse does not blow on EHU or gas suggests an overloaded fuse.
I would replace the fuse now, then turn on your engine for 15 minutes or so and see what happens.
 
maingate said:
Alternatively, if you have a manual selector knob on your fridge, set it to gas when you are travelling and see if the fuse still blows.
Click to expand...
I think I would set the selector to "off". I know some people travel using gas, but it makes me very nervous.

I still think the issue that the "reserve 4" is rated 25 amp but the OP uses 15amp fuse.
Best thing is to check the fridge specification, but although we know what make it is we still await the model number or specifications.
Just putting a 25amp fuse in is a potentially risky solution.
 
The '25 amp rating' is the maximum permissible size, not necessarily the correct size. If the fault is related to a failing 12 volt Element in the fridge then installing a bigger fuse could be dangerous.

How many members on here have swapped their lights over from Halogen to LED and not fitted a smaller fuse in the circuit? The fuses are sized by the manufacturer for a reason.
 
r4dent said:
I think I would set the selector to "off". I know some people travel using gas, but it makes me very nervous.

I still think the issue that the "reserve 4" is rated 25 amp but the OP uses 15amp fuse.
Best thing is to check the fridge specification, but although we know what make it is we still await the model number or specifications.
Just putting a 25amp fuse in is a potentially risky solution.
Click to expand...

I agree about the Gas.
I have checked and from what I can see domestic fridges normally run on 15a.
but the model would help
 
Got this from the manual for the fuse box

The refrigerator does not work during mobile operation
Defective alternator No voltage on D+ input Defective electrobloc
No power supply to the refrigerator
Defective electrobloc Defective refrigerator
Check the alternator Check the fuse and wiring
Contact the customer service department
Check the fuse (20A of the supply; possibly 2A of the D+ signal) and wiring
Contact the customer service department
Check the refrigerator
 
r4dent said:
I still think the issue that the "reserve 4" is rated 25 amp but the OP uses 15amp fuse.
Click to expand...
I would think the 25A rating is because the cable thickness on reserve 4 is capable up to that amount so that is the maximum for that circuit not the minimum, I have the same elektrobloc (Hymer though) and reserve 4 isn't used for anything.
I would let my van idle with the fridge on 12v for a while and see if it still blows, if it doesn't but then blows while driving I would suspect a loose or corroded connection causing a spike
 
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