Autosleeper Executive,

izwozral

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Looking to add another solar panel onto the roof bars as in the pic [not my actual mh]. The distance between the bars is approx 63". I have an unused solar panel that I've had hanging about for 3 years or more, it measures approx 55",
I have a belt and braces idea of how to affix the panel to the roof rails but I'm interested to know others members ideas which will more than likely be better than mine!
I'm thinking of bolting 3/4" square aluminium tubing to the underside of the panel frame then 'U' clips around the roof rails.
What d'ya think?

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Seems ok of an idea, do use a boat deck gland and put under panels to bring the cables through, much better than those silly things folks use, i have some here but would not use them.
gland.jpg
 
Cheers Trev. I already have a 100w panel mounted, I'll be researching YouTube and WC knowledge how to link them up.
 
I fitted a 200w panel to my roof bars using 22mm Rubber Lined P Clips Hose Pipe Clamp Stainless Steel - they fit the autosleeper bars perfectly. Before that i had a 120w bonded on the roof with ct1.

Mike20260304_164919.jpg
 
the newer panels ie bifacial and shadow are much more efficient ie if you have a raised panel it will not only provide charge on the face but also on the back surface as it reflects, the shade resistant ones will still provide charge if partially shade die if 10% of a normal panel is shaded you loose 100% of output if 10% of a ne wer one is shaded you still get 90% of output
 
I think I'd want to know a bit more about the panels and the charge controller before taking that advice Trev.
TRue it must be able to take the extra input Rob, my favorite as you know is the votronic mppt range which has a 1 amp bleed to the starter battery.
 
One thing I’d be looking to achieve Ral is joining the panels on the roof to avoid making any new holes in the roof. (As Rob says check both panels output voltage first to be sure of a match)

Then it’s just a matter of the controller which ain’t exactly complicated, you’ll need to find the feed that’s already in the van and add any new controller to that.

If I can sort 400w on the roof plus 440w foldout panels and make them work then you’ll not have an issue mate.

(Sod it, think I just complemented Ral… again)
 
Ral, you need to know what voltage and amperage your controller can handle before deciding how to wire the new panel to the existing panel. You may even need a higher rated controller.
I did wonder about that. The existing controller looks really cheap and nasty, plus I can't read it because it's behind the drivers seat.
 
You
I did wonder about that. The existing controller looks really cheap and nasty, plus I can't read it because it's behind the drivers seat.
If you are getting a new mppt controller you need to check the voltage on the 2 panels to make sure it can handle it and the combined output of the 2 panels. I would go for victron every time but others are available. Avoid the super cheap "mppt' ones!
 
You

If you are getting a new mppt controller you need to check the voltage on the 2 panels to make sure it can handle it and the combined output of the 2 panels. I would go for victron every time but others are available. Avoid the super cheap "mppt' ones!
I sold a victron to a fellow member,about half price if I remember rightly.
Not to mention the £92 spent on aluminium brackets I had made to fit the very same panel so it would sit above a skylight.
I'm a master at throwing money away! :rolleyes:
 
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