Anatomy of a Dometic Switch

[QFour]

The spark ignitor refused to work so tested the circuit using the tried and trusted method of shorting the switch terminals. Before you remove the switch which can be done by gently pushing a flat bladed screw driver carefully under each end you should TURN POWER OFF. Once the switch is out in the open it is far easier to test but I would advise putting something under the switch to keep the terminals clear of any metal surface. Turn the power on and short the two terminals together. If it sparks then you need a new switch for the following reason ..



Water has got in when you cleaned the hob and has got down inside the switch.



Cleaning the terminals just shows that all there is left is copper which is going to corrode as soon as you put it back in.



Not much in the switch and its easy enough to get into with a very small flat bladed screwdriver down the side.

If you look at the state the contacts are in you might just as well buy a new one. Dometic one is £13.01 + postage or EBay version HERE at £1.99 with free postage

The switch itself is certainly nothing special just a pity that Dometic use such a cheap unprotected switch in such a vulnerable position.

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[maingate]

I have just fitted one of those switches that you recommended in an earlier thread .... thanks for the info. :wave:

Your warning above about 12 volt isolation is a good one. When I replaced mine, I isolated the 12 volts at the control panel but the switch was still live. There was barely any spare length of wire to the awitch and it shorted out on the Hob. blowing the fuse.

It was a difficult job to connect the new switch due to the lack of cable length but I got there in the end. I would advise anyone with the Reich or EBL management systems to turn off the power on the unit (not just on the control panel).

Thanks again for the link to the switch.