ADVICE on REBUILD OF 2.5TDi Engine- EXPERTS & EXPERIENCE PLEASE

Stanski

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Hi to all, again.
Am considering this as an option so welcome opinions good or bad about the idea.

REASONS
Its a Sophin Engine, better design for power I believe.
Having done near 120k miles, over its 24 yrs, average of 7k over past 10 yrs.
The vehicle generally is still going well, but it is showing signs of its age.
My gut feeling is that it could survive another 10+ years with the right TLC.
Having only ever owned this one I have an attachment to it also.
MECHANICALLY
Clutch near end of life (has done some extreme work, although I am gentle with it when driving)
Steering Arm joints have a small play on inner track ends.
Engine smokes on start up, only when cold, for 1 to 2 mins (suspect valve seals).
Cam belt due for replacement.
OLD traditional fuelling, non electronic, so fuel pump is repairable.
Fuel economy has stayed same 31mpg all time.
Sump gasket seeping oil, needs replacing.
Thermostat requires changing/cleaning to aid correct gauge reading.
Fuel cut off gets lazy on occasion.

As I write this I can see why some may think what is right with it and why is it worth it.
Answer is : it does the job, and works well.

ENGINE REBUILD or REPLACE ADVICE
Have looked around for a 2.8tdi, not many found.
No 2.5tdi found YET.
Would you do it?
Any suggestions of what to do for partial rebuild.
My thinking is get engine out, leave main block and head alone, do all ancillaries, steering arm, alternator, fuel pump and turbo.
Or
GET a second engine and do this to transplant.

Any recommendations for engine refurbished in the South West?

THANKS in advance.
 
This is just my opinion, I would be inclined to strip and rebuild original engine replacing piston rings, deglazing bores, replacing crankshaft bearings and big end bearings, take the cylinder head for reconditioning and while doing all that take the fuel pump and injectors to a specialist to be overhauled, the fuel shut off valves on these engines were always prone to sticking and easy to replace especially when the pump is removed.
The Sofim 2.5 litre engine is a strong reliable engine.
 
This is just my opinion, I would be inclined to strip and rebuild original engine replacing piston rings, deglazing bores, replacing crankshaft bearings and big end bearings, take the cylinder head for reconditioning and while doing all that take the fuel pump and injectors to a specialist to be overhauled, the fuel shut off valves on these engines were always prone to sticking and easy to replace especially when the pump is removed.
The Sofim 2.5 litre engine is a strong reliable engine.
Yes in many ways.
OR get an identical factory recon.
This is probably not possible ?.
All the other bits will still need doing.
31mpg is great !
 
120k is barely run in for a Diesel engine if it runs and sounds ok leave it in, the smoke on start up will be down to fuel pump or injectors over fuelling whilst the pump is advanced whilst cold.
Change the belt and sump gasket and enjoy another 120k
 
120k is barely run in for a Diesel engine if it runs and sounds ok leave it in, the smoke on start up will be down to fuel pump or injectors over fuelling whilst the pump is advanced whilst cold.
Change the belt and sump gasket and enjoy another 120k
The same engine in my Iveco was still running great at 330.000 miles, it always smoked on start up when cold from the day that I bought it at 65.000 miles, I sold it to my SIL and it was still going strong several years later but the body had rotted.
I agree with Richard, change the belt/kit, sump gasket, have the pump overhauled and new cut of valve if you want to.
A new clutch kit is £100 - £150 for a LUK three piece kit so if you can get someone to fit it it wouldn't be expensive unless you have damaged the flywheel, I would change the oil seal as well while you are doing it.
 
Yes in many ways.
OR get an identical factory recon.
This is probably not possible ?.
All the other bits will still need doing.
31mpg is great !
Recon - maybe one around already done somewhere.
 
120k is barely run in for a Diesel engine if it runs and sounds ok leave it in, the smoke on start up will be down to fuel pump or injectors over fuelling whilst the pump is advanced whilst cold.
Change the belt and sump gasket and enjoy another 120k
Agree 120k is low,
Can accept cold start fuelling, but smoke is more blue than grey so believe valve stem seals worn.
Tempted to do fuel pump purely for checking if recent fuel additives are affecting it.
Thanks for thoughts.
 
The same engine in my Iveco was still running great at 330.000 miles, it always smoked on start up when cold from the day that I bought it at 65.000 miles, I sold it to my SIL and it was still going strong several years later but the body had rotted.
I agree with Richard, change the belt/kit, sump gasket, have the pump overhauled and new cut of valve if you want to.
A new clutch kit is £100 - £150 for a LUK three piece kit so if you can get someone to fit it it wouldn't be expensive unless you have damaged the flywheel, I would change the oil seal as well while you are doing it.
Good to hear high mileage reached, I have regularly changed the oil and filter.
Had oil service just as we left, got engine flushed for first time, put 5-W30 semisynth in it, new air filter also and could feel the difference in torque and response, honestly was very surprised.
Have LUK Clutch in back, got it 3yrs ago as a precaution.
Does the Turbo need care?

Thanks Tezza for comments.
 
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Do the belt, water pump and sump gasket. Give it some fuel treatment and thrash the life out of it in every gear for a few miles. It will feel like a new van😉
 
Good to hear high mileage reached, I have regularly changed the oil and filter.
Had oil service just as we left, got engine flushed for first time, put 5-W30 semisynth in it, new air filter also and could feel the difference in torque and response, honestly was very surprised.
Have LUK Clutch in back, got it 3yrs ago as a precaution.
Does the Turbo need care?

Thanks Tezza for comments.
As long as it’s had regular oil changes with decent oil the turbo will be fine.
 
If the smoke bothers you then why not get the head overhauled with new seals when the cam belt is changed or fit an exchange head? That will save you some labour. If its not burning much oil then personally I wouldn't bother and just put new cambelt on. I agree with other comments in that I certainly would not touch the bottom end at that mileage. Certainly no need to remove the engine.

The rest of it is consumables that may be a problem on any vehicle:)

Keith
 
Have LUK Clutch in back, got it 3yrs ago as a precaution.
Does the Turbo need care?

Thanks Tezza for comments.


As already said it sounds like you have looked after it so I wouldn't worry about the turbo myself
 
Dont hone and fit rings as it will start to burn oil, this is because all bores wear egg shape and fitting round rings makes it worse.
Leave it alone apart from replacing any leaky gaskets or seals, esp the one behind the flywheel, and from t cover, I would do the head gasket and replace valve seals etc.
 
I am NO mechanic !
The consensus seems to say.
"Do as little as possible" that matches the "if it aint broke" philosophy.
I guess the biggest concern could be the emissions test as part of MOT.
Yes to new cambelt and the like.
Also the other non engine items that are showing their age.
 
I am NO mechanic !
The consensus seems to say.
"Do as little as possible" that matches the "if it aint broke" philosophy.
I guess the biggest concern could be the emissions test as part of MOT.
Yes to new cambelt and the like.
Also the other non engine items that are showing their age.
Vans under 3,5 don't to an ex test here.
 
I pull my engine apart with no buget at 45 years old on a drive . As it burnt oil. Took months. If the moneys there ie £700.00 your buget ? = remove 300 if you already have spanners. Summers here next month.
Can you see it finnest by then. ?
 
Vans under 3,5 don't to an ex test here.
Until they sort the emissions extraction issue Trev.
Have found the testing very quick and generally very accommodating, as well as cheap.
Booking the test is funny as they are so far behind, was a wait of over 3 mths at Xmas. Bro-in-law got old farm 4x4 car (acting as secondary tractor) back on road after 4 yrs off, as the test was so far off, just because he could.
 
I pull my engine apart with no buget at 45 years old on a drive . As it burnt oil. Took months. If the moneys there ie £700.00 your buget ? = remove 300 if you already have spanners. Summers here next month.
Can you see it finnest by then. ?
Have the spanners 1Cup, tempted to do removal myself but need access to rear of house and have to keep SWMBO smiling.
Luckily have a good neighbour with specialist tools as he maintains old Land rover Fire Engine, was ex Fire Maintenance mechanic.
Have many other things to do also, so summer not a worry for me, probably better actually as it's warmer for the arthritis.
Getting it done by August would be the plan.
 
I am NO mechanic !
The consensus seems to say.
"Do as little as possible" that matches the "if it aint broke" philosophy.
I guess the biggest concern could be the emissions test as part of MOT.
Yes to new cambelt and the like.
Also the other non engine items that are showing their age.
I follow that philosophy in the main Jagmanx, it's just that in my head I know that the clutch having a finite life will need attention in near future.
So as it requires gearbox removal to do, getting the engine fully out may be a good option.
.
The argument to do nothing is good, until the clutch fails. Hence why I carry one with me.

Emissions is not a big concern as when warm no smoke, passes regulations easily.

Thanks for your input, opinions are always welcomed.
 

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