12v/24v only Dometic fridge error that is causing me to tear out my remaining hair

Duetto 1999

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Stumped.

I have a small Dometic 12v fridge in a (new to me) campervan. On switching it on, it "fires up" perfectly but after a short while reverts to error mode (amber light on and red flashing light in error 1 mode - a single flash with longish interval between flashes). After a few minutes, it fires up again and repeats the process ad nauseam. It is not just the compressor cycling on/off as it would normally do - too fast a turnaround and the red error light gives a lie to this thought.

My reading on this and other forums suggests that the error 1 mode indicates a voltage problem but at the fridge I am getting around 14v from the habitation battery with no significant drop in voltage as the machine cycles through the various stages outlined above.

I do hope somebody might be able to advise/suggest (politely) what else I should do/check/investigate as otherwise I think the beastly thing will end up on the drive being pulverised to save the last vestiges of hair on the top of my nearly entirely bald head!

Thanks in advance.
 
Could be a voltage drop due to the length of the cable.

has it ever worked properly since you've had the van?
 
It could be software related. Try removing the supply completely for a minute then start it up. If this does not work you may have a coolant leak, faulty control module, or a faulty compressor. I hope this helps.
 
Nabsim said:
I would still say its a voltage problem. Can you run a temporary heavier cable to the fridge to see if it cures it? If it does its undersize cable causing voltage drop. I have had similar with diesel heaters where it sows sufficient voltage and good battery.
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Certainly worth a try - nothing to lose.
Thank you (and everybody else too of course)
 
Does your fridge work from mains supply or is it 12v only


Reference voltage drop ensure the correct fuse size has been fitted.
A lower amperage fuse can cause supply drop also.
 
I understand the bad earth/fuse/voltage drop/extra cable theory and diagnosis BUT If the OP has checked the voltage at the fridge under load then it can't be any of the above. There could I guess be an issue with the internal wiring between the 12v terminals and the electronics but doubtful.
My guess would be software, probably a faulty sensor and a right pig to diagnose and fix.
IF you can get to the main PCB take it out and inspect for any obvious damage and check the wiring to anything that looks like a remote sensor. Then try a new board or see if you can swap the board with someone with the same model.
"causing me to tear out my remaining hair"
I've been diagnosing electronic issues most of my life and hair loss is a natural hazard 😉
 
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The way I read the first post, voltage was checked at the battery only?
Converters are notorious for fitting undersized cable.

Quick check ....if fridge not coming on and error code suggests voltage, start engine andsee if it comes on. I think it Willand that to me confirms cabling issue and most likely too thin.
 
merl said:
I understand the bad earth/fuse/voltage drop/extra cable theory and diagnosis BUT If the OP has checked the voltage at the fridge under load then it can't be any of the above. There could I guess be an issue with the internal wiring between the 12v terminals and the electronics but doubtful.
My guess would be software, probably a faulty sensor and a right pig to diagnose and fix.
IF you can get to the main PCB take it out and inspect for any obvious damage and check the wiring to anything that looks like a remote sensor. Then try a new board or see if you can swap the board with someone with the same model.
"causing me to tear out my remaining hair"
I've been diagnosing electronic issues most of my life and hair loss is a natural hazard 😉
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Thanks merl.
I have checked the voltage under load - that is what is/was confusing me. Your ideas are depressing ("right pig to diagnose and fix" I think you said) but also sound so when I get a chance I shall have the thing out of the van, pop it on the bench and see what I can see and get at what I can get at. There will probably come a point when I shall throw in the towel and buy a new one in order to save the last remaining hair!
Thanks again.
 
wildebus said:
The way I read the first post, voltage was checked at the battery only?
Converters are notorious for fitting undersized cable.

Quick check ....if fridge not coming on and error code suggests voltage, start engine andsee if it comes on. I think it Willand that to me confirms cabling issue and most likely too thin.
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Sorry, I failed to explain that I checked the voltage at the fridge - not at the battery. This fridge is not connected at all to the motor electrics - just a solar powered leisure battery not coupled to the vehicle's charging system.
 
Duetto 1999 said:
Sorry, I failed to explain that I checked the voltage at the fridge - not at the battery. This fridge is not connected at all to the motor electrics - just a solar powered leisure battery not coupled to the vehicle's charging system.
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No you didn't!
Duetto 1999 said:
but at the fridge I am getting around 14v from the habitation battery with no significant drop in voltage as the machine cycles through the various stages
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It's just that on this site you're dealing with mostly OAPs who can't read🤭😉🤣..........🤗
 
Its just working through possible causes. Nobody knows what the problem is until its found. To me easiest option is higher rate cable to see if its voltage drop, after that I would be looking at battery capacity, which would mean linking in another charge source, either main charger or jump leads to engine battery and run engine to test.

That said I am no electronics guy, just need structured testing to eliminate things and you will get there in the end.
 
merl said:
No you didn't!

It's just that on this site you're dealing with mostly OAPs who can't read🤭😉🤣..........🤗
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ha ha, I saw that the voltage was tested at the fridge in first post but I would still run additional/heavier cabe to test as a first step lol
 
Can you alter the cut in and out voltage.
My adventure one has 3 settings for this.
Off hand I cant remember them.
I'd also try a heavier cable. Then a battery test (not just a meter)
I'm no electrician.....just saying.
 
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