What does this mean?

Our Peugeot Boxer 2.8HDi's sevice regime was 2 years or 20,000 miles whichever comes first.

IMHO, that is too long particularly for a vehicle that does not get used as often as it should so oils and filters got changed yearly without exception.

Even during lockdown i still changed them yearly because the cost of them was nothing compared to needing a new engine or extensive repairs.

103,000 miles every one done by us, regularly up and down the Pyrenees and Rhone Alps and was running as well the day we sold it as it was from new 😎
 
There should be up to five rectangular box symbols shown above the world OIL to indicate the oil level.

Occasionally on my 2007 Ducato the gauge shows three symbols rather than five. It appears to be an intermittent fault with the sensor.

After a couple of further starts the sensor works again as it should.

Your fault may clear. In the meantime check using the dipstick...
 
Pudsey Bear said:
Ours is the 07, puma or transit engine and I get the oil thing ever time I start the engine the bars are a sign of the oil level, it always seen fine so I ignore it.
Click to expand...
If it had always come on from the start of our ownership (last October) I probably wouldn't have given it another thought, but it only started to come on a couple nof weeks ago. As you say, dipstick shows plenty in the sump so I'll probably put it down to the vehicle's character 😁
 
Canalsman said:
There should be up to five rectangular box symbols shown above the world OIL to indicate the oil level.

Occasionally on my 2007 Ducato the gauge shows three symbols rather than five. It appears to be an intermittent fault with the sensor.

After a couple of further starts the sensor works again as it should.

Your fault may clear. In the meantime check using the dipstick...
Click to expand...
I always use the dipstick, can't trust these electronic aids👍
 
Evening All - Hope your enjoying the Footy and Cricket and F1 and Tennis.
Before I begin I will put my "WWII Tin Hat" on.

OIL ABUSE
I have heard so much baloney about Oil Changes and changes needed.
I shall no doubt these observations will grind the "Mechanic / Engineer / Professor" but that's the reason for the forum - is it not?

Oil has a life span, only once it gets used beyond the "Life" then it should be replaced.

I believe the dealerships have introduced a falsehood about oil change needs and gullable drivers ignorant of oil physics believe it is a must to change yearly.

Condensation over winter is one argument I often hear mentioned.
Condensation when cold temperatures are experienced
Little used engines need more oil changes.

What a load of bull**** in my opinion.

Also annoying are the manufacturers stating very specific oil must be used, i.e, Ford Low Sulphur, B M W GSA/GLA, Vauxhall/Peugeot ??? to keep the wet belt alive.
Modern synthetic oils designed to last precisely a specific duration, BMW have an inbuilt algorithm to determine oil changes.
I accept modern cars need a bit more TLC, but should they? I blame the design idiots ignoring sense. Wet belts are a bad design solution.

Returning to oil changes.
Condensation - have I ever found yellow greasy contamination in any engine ? Yes - when the head gasket blew, and a very very small wisp at the oil filler when opening an engine after having a hard no service life.

Never have I found water gloop or white/yellow oil from an engine after 3 yrs neglect, or over 25k miles travelled.

When an engine starts the oil soon warms up, and I suggest any duration of over 15 mins will thrash any little condensation out into the top of the engine to be 'dried out'

So any diligent owner monthly would start the engine to both charge the battery and warm the engine.

I am by no means a diligent owner and have left vehicles (cars, vans, minibus, coach) for months at a time to fester through Winter, Spring and Autumn with no detriment apart from a drained battery if I forget to disconnect it.

So I see a lot of money being wasted by changing oil too early, along with oil filter.
Why don't we change this philosophy?

Say what you think - I await responses gleefully.
Cheers
 
Stanski said:
Evening All - Hope your enjoying the Footy and Cricket and F1 and Tennis.
Before I begin I will put my "WWII Tin Hat" on.

OIL ABUSE
I have heard so much baloney about Oil Changes and changes needed.
I shall no doubt these observations will grind the "Mechanic / Engineer / Professor" but that's the reason for the forum - is it not?

Oil has a life span, only once it gets used beyond the "Life" then it should be replaced.

I believe the dealerships have introduced a falsehood about oil change needs and gullable drivers ignorant of oil physics believe it is a must to change yearly.

Condensation over winter is one argument I often hear mentioned.
Condensation when cold temperatures are experienced
Little used engines need more oil changes.

What a load of bull**** in my opinion.

Also annoying are the manufacturers stating very specific oil must be used, i.e, Ford Low Sulphur, B M W GSA/GLA, Vauxhall/Peugeot ??? to keep the wet belt alive.
Modern synthetic oils designed to last precisely a specific duration, BMW have an inbuilt algorithm to determine oil changes.
I accept modern cars need a bit more TLC, but should they? I blame the design idiots ignoring sense. Wet belts are a bad design solution.

Returning to oil changes.
Condensation - have I ever found yellow greasy contamination in any engine ? Yes - when the head gasket blew, and a very very small wisp at the oil filler when opening an engine after having a hard no service life.

Never have I found water gloop or white/yellow oil from an engine after 3 yrs neglect, or over 25k miles travelled.

When an engine starts the oil soon warms up, and I suggest any duration of over 15 mins will thrash any little condensation out into the top of the engine to be 'dried out'

So any diligent owner monthly would start the engine to both charge the battery and warm the engine.

I am by no means a diligent owner and have left vehicles (cars, vans, minibus, coach) for months at a time to fester through Winter, Spring and Autumn with no detriment apart from a drained battery if I forget to disconnect it.

So I see a lot of money being wasted by changing oil too early, along with oil filter.
Why don't we change this philosophy?

Say what you think - I await responses gleefully.
Cheers
Click to expand...


You may well be right.

However, I will stick with changing oil at well below what is currently being recommended by manufacturers.

Wouldn't be the first time these wankers have talked shite.
 
I believe in following the vehicle manufacturer's guidelines for servicing, but I usually forget. No wood handy, so I'll stop there, but when I do get a service, I take the right filters to the garage, so I know they don't fit spurious ones, and ask for full synthetic oil to be used, not much more you can do is there without going a bit paranoid.

The problem is MoHos don't get used like other engines, so some may go a little OTT, and who's to say that is wrong without some quite intense study that no one will ever do, cept perhaps an oil company...

One thought is NOT to start the engine at all, but perhaps for a few seconds only to bring oil to the top of the engine now and then
 
I asked Chat GPT.





Motorhomes can be parked for a VERY time for most people, for some as long as 48 months of the year. Only have a two week holiday twice a year.
What would be the best way to treat it, considering the engine and the whole vehicle?

The biggest mistake people make is starting it every few weeks for 10 minutes. That's actually worse than leaving it alone. The engine never gets fully hot, moisture builds up in the oil and exhaust, and the battery never really recovers.


My routine for a motorhome that might stand for months would be:


Engine​


  • Change the oil and filter before long storage if it's nearly due. Dirty oil contains acids.
  • Fill the diesel tank completely to minimise condensation.
  • Add a good diesel stabiliser if it's likely to sit for over 6 months.
  • If possible, drive it for at least 30-40 miles before putting it away so the engine, gearbox and exhaust get thoroughly hot.

Battery​


This is probably the most important item.


  • Keep both starter and leisure batteries on a quality maintenance charger.
  • If there's no mains available, disconnect the negative terminal or fit a battery isolator.
  • Don't rely on the solar panel unless it's genuinely keeping the batteries fully charged all winter.

Tyres​


Tyres hate standing still.


  • Inflate to the upper end of the recommended pressure.
  • Move the vehicle half a wheel turn every month or two.
  • Better still, park on tyre cushions or boards.
  • Avoid standing on wet grass for months.

Brakes​


  • Never leave the handbrake on for months.
  • Use wheel chocks instead.
  • Leave the gearbox in Park (automatic) or first gear/reverse (manual).

Fuel​


Modern diesel is far less stable than it used to be.


  • Keep the tank brim-full.
  • Add stabiliser if storing for many months.
  • Avoid leaving it nearly empty.

Cooling system​


  • Make sure antifreeze strength is correct.
  • Replace coolant at the proper interval (usually every 5 years or so).

Interior​


  • Leave cupboards open.
  • Prop the fridge door open.
  • Remove food.
  • Ventilate slightly if secure.
  • Use moisture absorbers if stored outside.

Water system​


  • Drain everything.
  • Empty the boiler.
  • Empty waste tanks.
  • Leave taps halfway open.

Seals​


Every few months:


  • Wash the vehicle.
  • Lubricate door locks and hinges.
  • Treat rubber seals with silicone.

Suspension​


If you're storing for a year or more:


  • Jack stands under the axle can reduce tyre loading, but don't leave the suspension hanging.


What about starting it?​


I'd use one of these two approaches:


Best


  • Leave it alone.
  • Keep the batteries charged.
  • Then take it for a proper 30-50 mile drive when you're ready to use it.

Second best


  • Once every 6-8 weeks, take it out for at least 30 miles.
  • Get the coolant to full temperature.
  • Get the gearbox fully warm.
  • Use the brakes firmly several times.
  • Run the air conditioning for 10 minutes.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
I asked Chat GPT.





Motorhomes can be parked for a VERY time for most people, for some as long as 48 months of the year. Only have a two week holiday twice a year.
What would be the best way to treat it, considering the engine and the whole vehicle?

The biggest mistake people make is starting it every few weeks for 10 minutes. That's actually worse than leaving it alone. The engine never gets fully hot, moisture builds up in the oil and exhaust, and the battery never really recovers.


My routine for a motorhome that might stand for months would be:


Engine​


  • Change the oil and filter before long storage if it's nearly due. Dirty oil contains acids.
  • Fill the diesel tank completely to minimise condensation.
  • Add a good diesel stabiliser if it's likely to sit for over 6 months.
  • If possible, drive it for at least 30-40 miles before putting it away so the engine, gearbox and exhaust get thoroughly hot.

Battery​


This is probably the most important item.


  • Keep both starter and leisure batteries on a quality maintenance charger.
  • If there's no mains available, disconnect the negative terminal or fit a battery isolator.
  • Don't rely on the solar panel unless it's genuinely keeping the batteries fully charged all winter.

Tyres​


Tyres hate standing still.


  • Inflate to the upper end of the recommended pressure.
  • Move the vehicle half a wheel turn every month or two.
  • Better still, park on tyre cushions or boards.
  • Avoid standing on wet grass for months.

Brakes​


  • Never leave the handbrake on for months.
  • Use wheel chocks instead.
  • Leave the gearbox in Park (automatic) or first gear/reverse (manual).

Fuel​


Modern diesel is far less stable than it used to be.


  • Keep the tank brim-full.
  • Add stabiliser if storing for many months.
  • Avoid leaving it nearly empty.

Cooling system​


  • Make sure antifreeze strength is correct.
  • Replace coolant at the proper interval (usually every 5 years or so).

Interior​


  • Leave cupboards open.
  • Prop the fridge door open.
  • Remove food.
  • Ventilate slightly if secure.
  • Use moisture absorbers if stored outside.

Water system​


  • Drain everything.
  • Empty the boiler.
  • Empty waste tanks.
  • Leave taps halfway open.

Seals​


Every few months:


  • Wash the vehicle.
  • Lubricate door locks and hinges.
  • Treat rubber seals with silicone.

Suspension​


If you're storing for a year or more:


  • Jack stands under the axle can reduce tyre loading, but don't leave the suspension hanging.


What about starting it?​


I'd use one of these two approaches:


Best

...
  • Leave it alone.
  • Keep the batteries charged.
  • Then take it for a proper 30-50 mile drive when you're ready to use it.

Second best


  • Once every 6-8 weeks, take it out for at least 30 miles.
  • Get the coolant to full temperature.
  • Get the gearbox fully warm.
  • Use the brakes firmly several times.
  • Run the air conditioning for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Drive for a] at least 30 miles; b] 30-40 miles; or c] 30-50 miles? 3 different references in the AI ...

The Burstner Owner's Handbook suggests a 20 mile drive to charge the vehicle battery, IIRC, and to get the engine warmed through [in Winter the engine kicks off 'choke' after some 11 miles [I can hear the change and the motor feels much less sluggish - prior to this point, it's like driving with the handbrake on 1 notch, a real case of 'getting there as quick as I can'], whilst in Summer, as little as 5 miles if onto the open road, or around 8 miles to reach operating temperature

The Fiat Handbook recommends oil changes every 12 months if driven in dusty conditions or stop/start motoring, and warns against leaving the engine on tickover before starting to drive; drive off immediately but keep the revs down until operating temperature is reached. My garage is a member of the Scottish Motor Manufacturers Organisation and their Code of Conduct refuses to fit customer supplied parts because there is no guarantee that the right parts have been supplied and/or that the customer has stored the items correctly, so negating any warranty [I had to ask the garage if I could order the new wing mirror last year, and have it delivered direct to the garage because the garage's Parts Suppliers could not trace a UK Supplier. The garage has serviced the car & M/Home for 5-6 years now and we have a good relationship - prior to the house move we had only on street parking so the Garage Proprietor used to offer me storage for the car when we went on the Winter Sun Trips]

I follow the Burstner/Fiat technical advice on servicing et seq, because they *should* know what they're doing; and because doing so involves little extra expense for a 12 months oil & filter change as part of the interim service schedule [the garage checks antifreeze every 2 years, brake fluid each year, and removes the wheels to clean the brake dust to stop brake squeal, and will do any other checks that I request for a nominal 1/2 hour labour charge whilst the M/Home is on the ramps - e.g. adding a new earth strap, checking the rad this year to confirm that the sump guard drip was accumulated rain water, rather than a leak]. This gives peace of mind, and minimises the risk that I have to find a Spanish garage to fit new tyres/batteries etc at silly money prices, language difficulties, and delays/disruption of the holiday. Each to their own ...

Steve

Steve
 
Mtbcol said:
We've only done 5,000 since the last oil change so hoping just a sensor as you say 🤞
Click to expand...
I don't know about your van, but on some vehicles, the oil "condition" is based solely on time and not actual condition/quality. On my car the oil "condition" goes down 1/365th every day, regardless of any usage, so every 3 or 4 days, it drops another percent on the display.
 
Stanski said:
Evening All - Hope your enjoying the Footy and Cricket and F1 and Tennis.
Before I begin I will put my "WWII Tin Hat" on.

OIL ABUSE
I have heard so much baloney about Oil Changes and changes needed.
I shall no doubt these observations will grind the "Mechanic / Engineer / Professor" but that's the reason for the forum - is it not?

Oil has a life span, only once it gets used beyond the "Life" then it should be replaced.

I believe the dealerships have introduced a falsehood about oil change needs and gullable drivers ignorant of oil physics believe it is a must to change yearly.

Condensation over winter is one argument I often hear mentioned.
Condensation when cold temperatures are experienced
Little used engines need more oil changes.

What a load of bull**** in my opinion.

Also annoying are the manufacturers stating very specific oil must be used, i.e, Ford Low Sulphur, B M W GSA/GLA, Vauxhall/Peugeot ??? to keep the wet belt alive.
Modern synthetic oils designed to last precisely a specific duration, BMW have an inbuilt algorithm to determine oil changes.
I accept modern cars need a bit more TLC, but should they? I blame the design idiots ignoring sense. Wet belts are a bad design solution.

Returning to oil changes.
Condensation - have I ever found yellow greasy contamination in any engine ? Yes - when the head gasket blew, and a very very small wisp at the oil filler when opening an engine after having a hard no service life.

Never have I found water gloop or white/yellow oil from an engine after 3 yrs neglect, or over 25k miles travelled.

When an engine starts the oil soon warms up, and I suggest any duration of over 15 mins will thrash any little condensation out into the top of the engine to be 'dried out'

So any diligent owner monthly would start the engine to both charge the battery and warm the engine.

I am by no means a diligent owner and have left vehicles (cars, vans, minibus, coach) for months at a time to fester through Winter, Spring and Autumn with no detriment apart from a drained battery if I forget to disconnect it.

So I see a lot of money being wasted by changing oil too early, along with oil filter.
Why don't we change this philosophy?

Say what you think - I await responses gleefully.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Engines with moderen oils require a good hard run to make the oil work as it should, simple starts to warm up cause problems, over 50 years working on engines and reading about oils is important to me, i have had engines round the clock 4 times and still running sweet.
 
wildebus said:
I don't know about your van, but on some vehicles, the oil "condition" is based solely on time and not actual condition/quality. On my car the oil "condition" goes down 1/365th every day, regardless of any usage, so every 3 or 4 days, it drops another percent on the display.
Click to expand...
We've had it since last October, so could be the time factor? That's why I'm trying to determine what the display actually means. This however is seeming impossible🤷
 
Stanski said:
Evening All - Hope your enjoying the Footy and Cricket and F1 and Tennis.
Before I begin I will put my "WWII Tin Hat" on.

OIL ABUSE
I have heard so much baloney about Oil Changes and changes needed.
I shall no doubt these observations will grind the "Mechanic / Engineer / Professor" but that's the reason for the forum - is it not?

Oil has a life span, only once it gets used beyond the "Life" then it should be replaced.

I believe the dealerships have introduced a falsehood about oil change needs and gullable drivers ignorant of oil physics believe it is a must to change yearly.

Condensation over winter is one argument I often hear mentioned.
Condensation when cold temperatures are experienced
Little used engines need more oil changes.

What a load of bull**** in my opinion.

Also annoying are the manufacturers stating very specific oil must be used, i.e, Ford Low Sulphur, B M W GSA/GLA, Vauxhall/Peugeot ??? to keep the wet belt alive.
Modern synthetic oils designed to last precisely a specific duration, BMW have an inbuilt algorithm to determine oil changes.
I accept modern cars need a bit more TLC, but should they? I blame the design idiots ignoring sense. Wet belts are a bad design solution.

Returning to oil changes.
Condensation - have I ever found yellow greasy contamination in any engine ? Yes - when the head gasket blew, and a very very small wisp at the oil filler when opening an engine after having a hard no service life.

Never have I found water gloop or white/yellow oil from an engine after 3 yrs neglect, or over 25k miles travelled.

When an engine starts the oil soon warms up, and I suggest any duration of over 15 mins will thrash any little condensation out into the top of the engine to be 'dried out'

So any diligent owner monthly would start the engine to both charge the battery and warm the engine.

I am by no means a diligent owner and have left vehicles (cars, vans, minibus, coach) for months at a time to fester through Winter, Spring and Autumn with no detriment apart from a drained battery if I forget to disconnect it.

So I see a lot of money being wasted by changing oil too early, along with oil filter.
Why don't we change this philosophy?

Say what you think - I await responses gleefully.
Cheers
Click to expand...
I agree. Though I know nothing about this new stuff that's not really oil...
Back 25 years ago I bought a Scania 38 ton off a mate with close to a million kms on it. The oil was monitored each month by the manufacturer. As in a sample was sent off..I had no problems with the engine ..the cab just rusted through and ended up being parked up...I can't for the life off me remember what happened to it after that. Pbo??y was the reg.
So yes in my mind OIL gets changed too soon.
The grunge people get at the top of an engine is from a bad breathing system.
Now where's the tin hat 🙄
 
So manufacturers advice should be followed? These same ones who fit a wet belt lubrication system that breaks down at 50K, blocks the lub system and destroys the engine. Or the £60K to £80K Range Rovers that need a new engine at a very low mileage. To be honest, I have no intention of buying a new car because all of them are rubbish in one way or another.
 
Spot on Jim. The tranny is the base one of many that Bailey build, but despite the layouts being nigh on perfect, if I could afford one , I'd have to pass due to the wet belt, I'd be waiting for it to go tits up all the time. I'd also love a Rover Rover I had a ride in one of the very first ones a friend bought, I'd like a L322 3.6 diesel, but they do have that rep, so I'd need to be poked up.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
when I do get a service, I take the right filters to the garage, so I know they don't fit spurious ones
Click to expand...
Maybe if you don't trust 'em to use the right quality stuff you need to find another garage 😉
Also, you probably come into the last category in this chart
1782826191114.jpeg
 
Dunno where you live but you'd not pay any of those up here for a service.

And I always get my own parts as I have up til recently done most jobs myself, so I get trade prices, although not had to test that for 10 years or more.
 
To all who have contributed - thank you.
MTbcol - apologies for intruding and stepping into your discussion. Did you find the answer.
My Peugeot Boxer '09 reg' has same display - it's just an annoyance to me.

To:
Mark61 - But why change it sooner than needed?

Pudsey Bear - a bit of wood always handy, a good resumee of MH need from ChatGP, but is it accurate?

Marchie - My argument is that Manufacturers will want you to change each year as they get more money. Can you trust them?

TrevSkoda - Always Good to have your input, but you've sat on the fence on this.

Driver - Good to have one in agreement.

Main gate - a second supporter. Cheers. Agree wet belts are insane.

Bartman - Ha ha at costs - That's why I do most maintenance myself over my lifetime, saved a lot, although have caught a cold on the last project, need TrevSkoda help. Refitted replacement engine, bloody rear transmission seal leaking. and gearbox shite. Gearbox clunky and no 5th ( another story).

Typical costs here in SW are £85 to £120, independent to dealer. A few high end dealers are more.

Can offer another story about highend dealers - they f***ed up 7 times in trying to replace a VANOS and Camshaft.
Awaiting Ombudsman review on the case.
A classic story of modern design faults that led to incompetent mechanics not understanding diagnostics.
Madness it was. 15 months of torment and near £10k later, of which 50% the garage have paid for trying to solve problem.

A thought about the Middle East war.
Surely we should consider 2 yr oil changes as oil will be much more expensive again. Why change yearly if not needed?
 
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