Fridge not working on 240v

Fisherman said:
Your 3 way fridge only works on 12v when engine is running.
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And if it dont then there are a couple of fuses to check. Large amperage one from alternator and a 5 amp one on a relay .
No idea where they are though.
 
trevskoda said:
Dump it and fit a compressor fridge which is much better.
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So after not being able to find the 240 supply as it goes in a new fangled box and splits in 2, both with power out only nothing at other end... disappears into the unknown somewhere in the cabinetry..
Wife says to look for a compressor fridge...
 
We have a Dometic Fridge it did not work on electric like you just a day or so maybe less then turned off. We changed all sorts on it including electric element, it still did not work. We gave up running on gas only.
So this year we had a different problem when our trip switch blew we then changed trip switch to 16 amp it was a 13 amp bingo fridge been ok on electric ever since. The parts we changed costs us £600 ? This switch was £10 on Amazon.
Our conclusion is maybe the circuit breaker switch had been breaking down for some time.
 
Penny13 said:
We have a Dometic Fridge it did not work on electric like you just a day or so maybe less then turned off. We changed all sorts on it including electric element, it still did not work. We gave up running on gas only.
So this year we had a different problem when our trip switch blew we then changed trip switch to 16 amp it was a 13 amp bingo fridge been ok on electric ever since. The parts we changed costs us £600 ? This switch was £10 on Amazon.
Our conclusion is maybe the circuit breaker switch had been breaking down for some time.
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I would have changed to a compressor fridge from day one, cost £80 new.
 
Penny13 said:
We have a Dometic Fridge it did not work on electric like you just a day or so maybe less then turned off. We changed all sorts on it including electric element, it still did not work. We gave up running on gas only.
So this year we had a different problem when our trip switch blew we then changed trip switch to 16 amp it was a 13 amp bingo fridge been ok on electric ever since. The parts we changed costs us £600 ? This switch was £10 on Amazon.
Our conclusion is maybe the circuit breaker switch had been breaking down for some time.
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It's a nightmare, 237 out of the circuit breaker. 237 into water heater and 237 into and out of the box under the fridge ..nothing into fridge , though last time when it worked there was .... I cant find another junction box ..
Gave up and just using gas....
 
greg1 said:
You know when you feel you should have known this already!!! Thank you
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I dont think you should have that feeling in this case unless of course you have been motorhoming for many many years...........then yes, hang your head in shame 😆

Other than the bed and then only if it's fixed, it's all confusing
 
Try buying a new Rapido for £64,000 and giving it back to Brownhills three times to get the electric bed to work properly. They couldn't fix it so after I got the bed's workshop manual from the bed designer chap in Italy I spent a full day chasing the wiring to find that the Galloise smoking, Bordeaux drinking moron in the Rapido factory couldn't bother himself to push an eight pin plug and socket together. I cut the wires and soldered them together. Then the bed collapsed in one corner, fortunately while I was not driving. Needless to say I got rid of it costing me £6000. That was cheaper than taking Brownhills to court.
 
Back on topic. My Domestic RMT7651 fridge is getting just cool on gas, works fine on 12v and 230. I'm a retired gas man so you would think I could fix it! The flame is nice and blue, I've cleaned the burner and fitted a new injector (jet). I still think the flame can't be hot enough but the flame sensor is nicely orange. I'll have to check the actual burner pressure but hob and oven work fine. We're on holiday in Wales using Wild, bouncing off all the 'No motorhomes' signs but still finding nice places to stop.
 
gasgas said:
Try buying a new Rapido for £64,000 and giving it back to Brownhills three times to get the electric bed to work properly. They couldn't fix it so after I got the bed's workshop manual from the bed designer chap in Italy I spent a full day chasing the wiring to find that the Galloise smoking, Bordeaux drinking moron in the Rapido factory couldn't bother himself to push an eight pin plug and socket together. I cut the wires and soldered them together. Then the bed collapsed in one corner, fortunately while I was not driving. Needless to say I got rid of it costing me £6000. That was cheaper than taking Brownhills to court.
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When buying a new Motorhome it’s almost certain that you will have initial problems. There is so much put into them it’s almost inevitable. What would annoyed me more than anything from your situation would be the dealership, not rapido, or the engineer who erred during the vans construction.
Also I am confused as to why when you found that the eight pin plug was not connected to the socket properly that you then cut the cable and soldered the cables together. Why not simply push the plug properly into the socket.
 
I'm not questioning your intelligence, because I fell for this. Have you checked the plug is in and switched on? Our three way fridge did a similar thing and I was all set to take it in. I mentioned it to a guy on the next pitch to me and it was his suggestion. The plug is in a cupboard below the fridge and sure enough when putting stuff in the cupboard we'd knocked the switch off!
 
Annsman said:
I'm not questioning your intelligence, because I fell for this. Have you checked the plug is in and switched on? Our three way fridge did a similar thing and I was all set to take it in. I mentioned it to a guy on the next pitch to me and it was his suggestion. The plug is in a cupboard below the fridge and sure enough when putting stuff in the cupboard we'd knocked the switch off!
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It is amazing how many fridge problems reported seem to end up being such a basic thing as power not getting to the thing!
One of the first steps has got to be not just checking the switch is on and plugged in, but checking after that with a meter if is there 240V at the fridge terminals.
 
As a domestic gas boiler engineer I did sometimes chuckle when I went to a customer with a non working boiler, only to find it wasn't switched on, or more usually the programmer was off. To answer fisherman's question I soldered the wires together because the bed spec said wiring should be rated at 20 amps and the little connectors were rated at 15A. Sorry to be off topic, my brain diverted me to the time when a fridge I had wouldn't work on 12v and the reason was that each of the many connections in the supply dropped the volts a little bit leaving only 10.8v at the fridge so it didn't work. I rewired it with thicker wire and soldered joints, then it worked fine as it now had 12.8v with the engine running.
 
Driver, you need at least a10A fuse in the 12v supply as a caravan / MH fridge is commonly rated about 100W. Check the wattage of the fridge , work out the current and double it for the fuse.
 
gasgas said:
Driver, you need at least a10A fuse in the 12v supply as a caravan / MH fridge is commonly rated about 100W. Check the wattage of the fridge , work out the current and double it for the fuse.
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Back of my Thetford N180 3-Way ....
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Thanks to driver for the advice to go to manualslib.com. my fridge is now working. Looking at the manual on line I was able to check the various voltages which confirmed my feeling that my injector was a bit blocked presumably by a tiny bit of dust. I took it out and wiggled a very small needle in the tiny hole. I reassembled the jet and burner mechanism two hours ago and now I have frozen bacon and frozen orange juice. On the subject of fuses this particular fridge, Dometic RMT7651L uses 170Watts at 12v which is 14 Amps so it would need a 20 or 25 Amp fuse.
 
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gasgas said:
As a domestic gas boiler engineer I did sometimes chuckle when I went to a customer with a non working boiler, only to find it wasn't switched on, or more usually the programmer was off. To answer fisherman's question I soldered the wires together because the bed spec said wiring should be rated at 20 amps and the little connectors were rated at 15A. Sorry to be off topic, my brain diverted me to the time when a fridge I had wouldn't work on 12v and the reason was that each of the many connections in the supply dropped the volts a little bit leaving only 10.8v at the fridge so it didn't work. I rewired it with thicker wire and soldered joints, then it worked fine as it now had 12.8v with the engine running.
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Should be 14.4v
 
It's not me with the 12 volt problem , mine is fine,
Chausson have a 5 amp fuse hidden in wiring To work a relay which connects the wiring to the 30amp fuse which switches the alternator power to the fridge.. bloody french designers
Mine works great on gas though its working out around £3 per week extra with a refillable bottle
When I've time I will strip the carpentry out to chase the wiring as it's not worked for a while now, but I am using it manually as fed up of gone off stuff in the fridge
 
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