Two different solar panel set ups.

izwozral

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When the weather is better I am fixing a 150 watt solar panel to the roof which will replace a stuck on panel. The wiring will go to the solar charger like this one, mine is the T20 https://www.wish.com/product/57d91c0c597a941c530d105a?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=GB&_force_currency_code=GBP&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=57d91c0c597a941c530d105a&ad_cc=GB&ad_curr=GBP&ad_price=20.00&campaign_id=6493229882&gclid=CjwKCAiAsIDxBRAsEiwAV76N8wLH3wsJ3ZBZbUl2oPnT1npreFeXiHCnN2NVPTTgBq7Nrp9_kqTniRoCeR4QAvD_BwE

There is very limited space on the MH roof to fit another panel.

I have recently acquired a 100 watt folding briefcase solar panel similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renogy®-Fo...ocphy=9046463&hvtargid=pla-351461379555&psc=1

Is it possible to use the briefcase panel in conjunction with the roof panel, bearing in mind that the briefcase panel will be ground based and used sporadically?
 
Do some research their are fake mppt controllers for sale , lots are named and shamed on utube, I have a portable panel connected to a separate controller the controller can be switched of when not in use to save battery drain ,I know it is controversial to use 2 controller's so I have put my tin hat on .
 
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Thanks Bazz, will look into it and why is using two controllers is controversial?
 
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Can't see anything wrong using two controllers.

"Can two solar controllers run together"?
Yes, multiple charge controllers can be used on the same battery bank. Multiple charge controllers are used in situations where a single charge controller is not able to handle the entire output of a large solar array.
 
Just when I thought it was ok!!!

:cautious:


Marine Tech Online
Marine Tech Online
1 year ago
Hi, my name Stephen Welsh, I'm a certified marine technician and I will like to give you a bit of advice regarding the above video and connecting charge controllers in parallel. If you run out of capacity on a charge controller the best thing to do is obtain a charge controller with higher amperage that can carry all the panels at once, it's called a charge controller/regulator because its sole job is to regulate the Voltage and Amps so you will not over charge and destroy your battery in that case. Here's what actually happens when two or more controllers are used in parallel, lets call them controller A and controller B. Both controllers will start charging in full capacity (bulk) as seen in your video above, but when the volts get up to the set bulk charging voltage let's say 14.2 or whatever you have it set at, controller A will see the battery voltage at 14.2 and thinks that the battery is getting full. Therefore, it will quickly go into absorption and then into float prematurely, while controller B struggles for the rest of the day trying to do all the work and thats because controller A thats in float putting out little or no amps thinking the battery is full and take the rest of the day off. If you're running a system smiler to this, two 50 charge controllers feeding the same battery bank with 30 amps each from separate panels (total 60 amps). If you are running that kind of set up please monitor your system read out and you will see one charge controller working three time harder than the other, a easy way to tell is one always hotter than the other. The only way you can put two or more charge controller in parallel without having the problem I described, is by using charge controllers that could link with each other like master and slave. Its best to put all your panels on one charge controller. If you thinking of adding panels in the future, buy a charge controller that allow you to do that in the future, hope this helps.
 
I am reading your question differently Ral if you are talking running both systems independently so one is isolated from the other I don’t see a problem ...in the event one goes down or depletes you still have the back up set up and engage by shifting the isolation switch
 
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I am reading your question differently Ral if you are talking running both systems independently so one is isolated from the other I don’t see a problem ...in the event one goes down or depletes you still have the back up set up and engage by shifting the isolation switch

Not quite what I was hoping to achieve unfortunately.

I was hoping that I could add the briefcase panel @ 100 watts to the roof panel @ £150 watts , making 250 watts but as I want to use the folding panel on the ground it alters the equation somewhat and it doesn't look like it will work?

If I was able to fit another panel on the roof then no problem, I would run the 2x panels in parallel - charger - battery.

My existing set up is panel - charger - battery,

My thoughts were 2x separate panels - 2x charger - battery.
 
Except that you can't really. Izworal gave a correct explanation. One or other controller will decide that the absorption phase is done, or even throw a wobbly because the other controller is pushing in slightly more voltage.

At some point one or the other solar panel/controller will go into trickle mode, leaving just one panel completing the absorption phase. Which might be good enough, but not ideal. It will probably work, certainly in the bulk charging period..
 
It will probably work, certainly in the bulk charging period..

By that you mean when the batteries are not fully charged?
If so, could the 2nd panel be used as a 'top up' charger if and when needed? Actually, now I have re-read it, I think that is what Channa was suggestiing?
 
The answer is yes you can add separate controllers, solar farms are done that way. Is it a good idea to do so in a van though is a bit different. Initially I had two controllers, one for each panel. Not really a great example maybe as one controller was a Votronic 250 Duo MPPT and the other an Epever non mppt controller that came in a kit.

on my setup I harvested more power putting both panels through the Votronic controller.

I keep thinking about some folding panels for the 5/6 months we don’t get so much (read almost no) sun. If I do this I will run it through an additional Votronic mppt controller but I am fairly certain that so far this winter I couldn’t have harvested what I need anyway so may not bother. In summer my 300W has been enough to recharge my 60ish amps daily use age
 
It is all highly dependant on your exact setup, the intelligence of the controllers and how they interact.

Yes, the bulk phase is when the batteries are not fully charged. With lead this is while the voltage is less than say 14.4V. I would hope that both controllers would be working together during this.

But this only brings the battery up to say 80% charge, the last 20% goes in during the absorption phase when the controllers maintain the battery voltage at 14.4V for a suitable period of time, then fall back to about 13.8V as a float charge. (These are general numbers, not necessarily correct).

This is where I foresee potential difficulties if one controller has a slightly different (higher) absorption voltage setting then the other one might decide that absorption had completed and fall back to float. When the controller left with all the load might not have the current to keep the battery at the absorption voltage, voltage drops, triggers it back to bulk mode, maybe other controller sees the same thing happening, kicks in again, cycle repeats who knows ? Either way absorption is disrupted

Absorption is quite important, as I said it accounts for maybe the final 20% of the charging. So if say you have drained your battery to no less than 50%, the bulk phase puts in 30% and the absorption the final 20%.

Different controllers manage the absorption phase in different ways, the most basic ones just for a set time period, more sophisticated ones monitor the current and when they see it tailing off go into float.

Then there is the question of when the battery is at float but you start using power from it. The voltage drops to say the nominal 12.7V of a fully charged battery, actually less under load. Does your controller now work as a power supply, as it should, to provide as much current as the solar can deliver to add to that drawn from the battery, or is it just a dumb one. How does it determine when to restart the bulk-absorption-float operation. Will both work together in harmony sharing the load ?

Basic ones just work on a 24 hour cycle. Once the sun comes up in the morning they attempt the bulk/absorption/float cycle. Might complete, might not. Then only get re-triggered and start again after a period of darkness (night).

That can actually be quite bad for the battery if it doesn't really need charging, e.g. the van is not being used much, just parked up. or driven around without using much from the battery. Pushing it into absorption mode every day when not needed is harsh. A decent controller will sense this and just keep it in float, until it decides a full cycle might be a good idea. Maybe once a week, or longer. Float is safe indefinitely, a periodic absorption charge is a good thing for a wet cell to stir up the acid which otherwise stratifies. But not every day. Other technologies do not require this at all.

Better controllers are more clever.

What really happens in a motorhome ? We drive around, the alternator kicks in possibly confusing a simple controller, we park up somewhere shaded, move on, a bird poos on our panel or some leaves fall on it knocking out some or all of the capacity, maybe we plug in to some EHU for a while, all very confusing for a simple controller.

Park up for a few days in one spot, set out the second panel, and it's simpler.

I can think of many other reasons why things might not work smoothly, but basically my advice would be to try rig up a connector for your folding panel to put it in parallel with the roof one, feeding a single controller that is rated for the combined capacity. That inexpensive one you have bought, at 20A,
might just cope with 250W combined, in practice you won't see 250W from your panels in the UK except in the most favourable conditions, and whilst your batteries are low.

Actually that £24 controller seems too good to be true. If it is genuinely an MPPT, not actually just PWM (it looks just like many of the basic PWM controllers available everywhere at similar prices and does mention PWM whilst claiming to be MPPT) , and can say drop 24V down to 12 efficiently you could even rig your two panels in series to get the best from them.

Be cautious connecting and disconnecting them, you can get some very big sparks if the sun is shining that could damage the connectors and fry your controller, cover it with e.g a towel whilst doing so.
 

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