Peugeot X250 Air Suspension Kit

mike w

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Our latest 7.3m Motorhome bottoms out when I attempt to park on our very steep drive way
I am considering installing a rear air suspension kit with in cab pneumatic control to simply increase the ride height while driving it up the slope.
Has anyone had similar experiences, I am trying to work out the max lift these bags will give in the real world. Manufactures only state up to 100mm depending on load.
My plan is to block the original bump stop up by and equivalent amount and see what increase I get at the rear bumper area before wasting any money.
Before someone suggests "reverse up the slope" I have already tried that :(

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 
Perfect, that's the sort of ride height info I was looking for. The kit suggested is the type I am considering.
Just to clarify, this 50mm is an extra clearance after the units are pumped up?
 
Our MH has air assisted suspension, I'd say it more just firms up the suspension rather than actually lift it. But guess that may depend on the weight on the back end?
 
Perfect, that's the sort of ride height info I was looking for. The kit suggested is the type I am considering.
Just to clarify, this 50mm is an extra clearance after the units are pumped up?
Yes
 
On the off chance you are only scraping for a few inches maybe a speed bump or similar laid in the right place will get you up. It wouldn't have to be fixed.
 
Most air bags around the £300 to £500 mark are "air assist" and replace the bump stops. The lift is limited due to the bellows.
the sellers should have the sizes of the bellows on their info.
They are a tight fit to get in when replacing the bump stops so the lift is limited. 50 mm to 75 mm should be achievable with most kits sold.
You can replace the springs with a air suspension set up but it is costly.
 
Don't forget the added weight. Why not just a removable ramp. You could make them using bridging ladders to save on weight. Be far cheaper.
 
I have seen vans with jocky wheels at the rear to avoid it scraping if you,ve a hitch easily fit one in the middle
 
Be interesting to hear Alkos thoughts on fitting wheels exerting upwards forces to something designed to take downwards forces
The one I saw in use was steel rollers one on each corner of a hitch and it definitely applied a twist to the rear all lift going to one corner first an didn't do anything to lessen the scraping noise
 
The one I saw in use was steel rollers one on each corner of a hitch and it definitely applied a twist to the rear all lift going to one corner first an didn't do anything to lessen the scraping noise
I've seen similar.... A lot of folks, seem happy to just bolt stuff on willy nilly with little regard for all the time and cost original manufacturers have invested in designing something to do a specific job...

A frames bolted to recovery points etc then wonder why the front structure of their tow car has been weakened.
 
I scrape reversing onto our drive too, the wheels just spin if I go in forwards, it's the waste tank straps that scrape, so I keep my eye on them and will replace if they get too thin.

I will look into some sort of ramp, a bit of ply might just be enough, with something to stop it skidding.
 
On the off chance you are only scraping for a few inches maybe a speed bump or similar laid in the right place will get you up. It wouldn't have to be fixed.

That was my immediate thought.

If it is a small localised area the van is scraping, maybe a block of wood under each wheel would raise it enough to clear?
 
Don't forget the added weight. Why not just a removable ramp. You could make them using bridging ladders to save on weight. Be far cheaper.
The basic bellows between the spring and chassis obviously reduce payload but even with the compressor are probably well under 15kg.
They may well improve handling and ride quality at lower pressures.
There's also a distinct possibility that safety will be improved by bringing overloaded van springs back within design specifications.
 

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