MOT and VOSA

[Mr B]

In reply to your point, I can, as a trained Honda motorcycle mechanic tell you that the front brake lever pivot bolt is always a shouldered type on Honda, it’s not threaded all the way,this is to prevent over tightening as this might cause the lever to be squashed between the mount jaws, making it dangerous, it could make the brake stick on when applied. The torque setting is minimal, as the nyloc nut ( should be replaced every time it’s undone) is designed to not vibrate off.
I would much rather see a pivot bolt nut on the front brake a tad loose, but with a nyloc, than done up a half a turn past the recommended torque setting, the nut falling off will not cause problems, but an over tightened pivot bolt nut would be stressing its own threads.
So do you think in this instance the mot tester should have torqued that nut or just give it half a turn, possibly over tightening it and stressing the most important part on any motorcycle?

Clearly we are both far more qualified than the vehicle presenter who disputes the MOT tester tightening up a clearly loose nut !
It is not the actual nut or what a manufacturer might design or specify that is in question but the unqualified OP's opinion that the MOT tester was out to rip him off by first failing a clearly loose nut and then tightening it up at no charge to enable their unroadworthy vehicle to meet minimum roadworthiness standards that is laughable.

 

[peter palance]

There is too much opportunity for greedy garages to make up extra jobs.

Have you noticed when you buy a secondhand car from a dealer with a new mot that the next mot it requires a list of jobs doing that is a yard long ?

All those jobs did not occur in 12 months and 5 thousand miles.

They either passed a car with faults or made up a long list of repairs.

Nobody minds having safety items repaired if they really need it.

eye that is me, when buying,all way go to the garage, i use and ask, mot it please, cost about £40 they are happy, so am i job don, ok pj

 

[yeoblade]

A view from the other side ....

All garages and MOT test stations are stocked with highly experienced staff who are qualified experts in their field. Its nice to hear from some unqualified mechanic as to how they think they know best !!!!

1. Tester clearly knew what was wrong and selected correct tool to tighten the offending article at no charge to you! Doesn't need to invent faults but however idiot punters seem to imagine we do !

2. You checked your bike over and didn't notice it, clearly you need a qualified expert to check things for you on a regular as you failed to notice the loose nut !!!

3. He is the qualified expert, you are not. Clearly offends you that someone caught you out.

4. Maybe he was an Alpha male, the qualified expert always is to the unqualified layman.

Ps .... You are the sort of customer that gives motor industry a bad name, please feel free to find somewhere else to take you vehicle

Unlike you, I witnessed what happened!

 

[harrow]

As an interesting aside,

I was taught that taper wheel bearings should have perceptible end play,

but mot testers insist that there is no end float what so ever ?

So what is correct with taper wheel bearings ?

 

[maingate]

Taper Roller Bearings should be nipped up and then backed off slightly. It depends on the Bearing size and application as to what the recommended 'nip up' and 'backoff' should be. They should never be tightened and left at that.

 

[ricc]

I was taught to nip them up tight to seat everything , then back them off till the wheel rotated freely , usually with no end play.

Now with mobile internet to look up the torque and torque wrenchs hanging from every wall we can spend twice as long doing it by the book.

 

[harrow]

Yes with taper bearings I have always left perceptible end play

but the testers look blank when I say that,

and say tighten it down until there is no end play what so ever.