mastic sealant

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driver12

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Hello,
What is the best mastic sealant to use on exterior body seals
 
rubbery stuff

GP 200 (various colours plus clear) from Selco Builders, works out around £2 a tube with discount.....can also be used as effective glue if you can keep components together for up to 3 hours........steve Bristol
 
What worked for me

driver12 said:
Hello,
What is the best mastic sealant to use on exterior body seals
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Sika Sikaaflex 512.i have no complaints after a year,only wife walked in the dropped bits,i should go back to Somerset and fetch her back sometime.good luck.
 
For exposed joints Sika 512 or 221 polyurethane based adhesive sealants, Stixall does similar.

For bedding of cappings, mouldings, rooflights vents etc. Sikalastomer 710 Butyl based and stays permanently flexible, if you spring a leak you'll be able to remove it.

If you just get silicone sealant, at least make sure it's neutral cure and not acid cure, they don't usually show which it is on the tube.
 
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Byronic said:
For exposed joints Sika 512 or 221 polyurethane based adhesive sealants, Stixall does similar.

For bedding of cappings, mouldings, rooflights vents etc. Sikalastomer 710 Butyl based and stays permanently flexible, if you spring a leak you'll be able to remove it.

If you just get silicone sealant, at least make sure it's neutral cure and not acid cure, they don't usually show which it is on the tube.
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I found the Sikalastomer awful stuff to use. I'm sure it makes a good seal, but working with it is horrible. You cannot seal it to a good finish using a finger (or anything else!) like other sealants, it pulls all over the place.

I sealed my windows with it, having first used Mastic tape inside the frames, it looked like a dog's dinner and I had to remove it all, which was another ordeal. White spirit or meths wouldn't touch it, in the end I found the only stuff which would shift it was WD40.
 
Robmac said:
I found the Sikalastomer awful stuff to use. I'm sure it makes a good seal, but working with it is horrible. You cannot seal it to a good finish using a finger (or anything else!) like other sealants, it pulls all over the place.

I sealed my windows with it, having first used Mastic tape inside the frames, it looked like a dog's dinner and I had to remove it all, which was another ordeal. White spirit or meths wouldn't touch it, in the end I found the only stuff which would shift it was WD40.
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Excuses, excuses! White spirit does remove it, well it does for me, are you sure that's what you used? To smooth the joint finger and soapy water.
It is mucky stuff there's no denying. The dated Caravan Sealant? sold in a roll is easier to use, is much the same product ie Butyl based, but there could be a secret extra additive in Sika possibly remains flexible for longer(I don't know).
 
Tiger seal I've got half the houses in my area held together with this stuff . Sticks **** to **** .
You'll pick it up from idependant motor shop we get it for £7 but you might have to pay more as I buy in bulk. Cheers
 
Byronic said:
Excuses, excuses! White spirit does remove it, well it does for me, are you sure that's what you used? To smooth the joint finger and soapy water.
It is mucky stuff there's no denying. The dated Caravan Sealant? sold in a roll is easier to use, is much the same product ie Butyl based, but there could be a secret extra additive in Sika possibly remains flexible for longer(I don't know).
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I got my mate to do it (He's a window fitter by trade and uses sealant every day). He tried smoothing it with the usual, spit and finger, he said it was the worst stuff he had ever used. I was just left with the job of removing it. I have since been told soapy water though.

I did try white spirit, but this was the next day when the skin had formed, I worked at it for hours and it hardly affected it. The instructions do say that once applied it can only be removed by mechanical means. WD40 made short work of it though.
 
Robmac said:
I got my mate to do it (He's a window fitter by trade and uses sealant every day). He tried smoothing it with the usual, spit and finger, he said it was the worst stuff he had ever used. I was just left with the job of removing it. I have since been told soapy water though.

I did try white spirit, but this was the next day when the skin had formed, I worked at it for hours and it hardly affected it. The instructions do say that once applied it can only be removed by mechanical means. WD40 made short work of it though.
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Somehow I get the idea you're not keen on the stuff!
I definitely wouldn't use it under window frames where there are pronounced corrugations meaning the sealant may be more than 8mm thick because it is difficult to tool or mask off neatly. A capping or corner mould on 2mm of 710 can look neat and clean.
Yes remove by mechanical means, it's so soft a piece of plastic or wood is enough to get 90% off, this exposes a fresh layer which can be removed with white spirit, never tried WD 40.
 
Byronic said:
Somehow I get the idea you're not keen on the stuff!
I definitely wouldn't use it under window frames where there are pronounced corrugations meaning the sealant may be more than 8mm thick because it is difficult to tool or mask off neatly. A capping or corner mould on 2mm of 710 can look neat and clean.
Yes remove by mechanical means, it's so soft a piece of plastic or wood is enough to get 90% off, this exposes a fresh layer which can be removed with white spirit, never tried WD 40.
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Hate the stuff with a vengeance.

He did plaster it on a bit for saying it was only to seal a very thin seam where the windows butted against the metal.

But, scraping with a bit of wood just didn't seem to do much apart from push it into clumps which I could then pull away in long strings, but still left a thin skin spread across the metal. I still have one window to clean up, I will challenge anybody at the Falkirk meet the weekend after next to clean a small portion of it off with White Spirit and a wooden scraper.

I might then challenge them to plumb in my water system. I might then challenge them to polish the van.
 
Be sure to check out their own selfbuild first, you don't want someone with one of those "halfbuilds" ready to go on eBay mucking around with your pride and joy :)
 
Byronic said:
Be sure to check out their own selfbuild first, you don't want someone with one of those "halfbuilds" ready to go on eBay mucking around with your pride and joy :)
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Incidentally, after a couple of bottles of white spirit, and a lot of scraping, I started worrying that it might start dissolving the paintwork. Would it do that?
 
Robmac said:
Incidentally, after a couple of bottles of white spirit, and a lot of scraping, I started worrying that it might start dissolving the paintwork. Would it do that?
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If you mean after drinking a couple bottles of White Rum then you'll probably damage something.

I've never found white spirit to attack fully cured modern vehicle paints, obviously the less needed to get the results the better. I always soap and water wash it off asap. And if in doubt I try first somewhere relatively unimportant.
I should add that I doubt I've white spirit cleaned every known variety of vehicle paint!
 
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Try acetone I bought a van a couple of weeks ago and it had the previous company's fablon lettering all over I used boiling water to soften the fablon and it peeled off leaving glue everywhere tried white spired it was rubbish . Tried petrol rubbish. Tried acetone and it came off no problem and dident damage paint. But try on a test area first. Cheers
 
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