Adding an extra Solar Panel

That answers my question perfectly wildebus, thanks. Sorry I did'nt make the question clear, really I just want to leave the load terminals un-connected.

I had figured that the purpose of the load connection facility was to limit the battery current to 15amps and also, or more importantly, to protect the battery/ies (particularly lead, acid) from over discharge by disconnecting the load when the low voltage disconnect value is reached. The same is incorporated on my Morningstar which I already have connected up. I think it's a great feature in order to save your batteries in the case of accidentally leaving something switched on long term that would normally kill the battery/ies. It has on occasion shut down/disconnected, due to our Eberspacher starting up which can momentarily drawn a huge current but most of the time it's catered for as the Morningstar ignores a momentary high draw. I just did'nt know if the Victron would function if there are no connections on the load terminals.

As the huge panel and the Victron are just to be used.....'sometimes'......I'm planning for it to be clipped on as required and not to have to start a major re-wiring project. Enough of that already squeezing three batteries under the seats and tight fitting wiring.

Thanks to all who contributed, report to follow hopefully !
 
A question Dave. I watched one of Will Prowse YouTube videos the other day where he was comparing mppt controllers. I didn’t watch it all as I got bored with it but one thing he said that stuck in my mind. That was NOT to use the load option on the controllers (all of them) but he didn’t say why on what I watched. I thinks it may have been something he covered in another video.
Anyway, I had never heard anyone say that and wondered if you knew why?
 
Most Victron kit has very good overload/surge management (the inverters can manage a massive overload for way longer than most other brands) but I don't know what the Solar Controllers can do (I think it is specified in the data sheet?).
Victron only fit the LOAD terminals to the smallest controllers now - the 30A and above have a "virtual load" which is a bit weird.
I don't have a real use for the Load output on my 100/20 MPPT but decided to connect the Battery Maintainer for the Starter Battery to it purely as you can use the Victron system to monitor the current on the Load. Like I said, no real reason to do that other than curisoity and "because it's there" :)
 
A question Dave. I watched one of Will Prowse YouTube videos the other day where he was comparing mppt controllers. I didn’t watch it all as I got bored with it but one thing he said that stuck in my mind. That was NOT to use the load option on the controllers (all of them) but he didn’t say why on what I watched. I thinks it may have been something he covered in another video.
Anyway, I had never heard anyone say that and wondered if you knew why?
I am not aware of any reason NOT to use them, just there is rarely a reason.
Intrigued me now as the young whippersnapper knows his stuff.

Now thinking this further ..... the load terminals can be generally configured to go on and off depending on various parameters, which would mean there would be a relay activating (this would be how the victron one must work - when the LOAD is enabled the BAT+ and the LOAD+ are linked). and that relay could be drawing (a tiny amount of) current. Maybe that extra current draw could be viewed as wasteful?
 
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I am not aware of any reason NOT to use them, just there is rarely a reason.
Intrigued me now as the young whippersnapper knows his stuff.
Good, I was thinking that if you didn’t know what he meant you would dig it out :)
It’s is in a video where he compares solar controllers, he has a Victron in there and I think 5 others. Can’t remember how long ago it was posted but should be able to find in my history if you can’t find it 👍
 
Good, I was thinking that if you didn’t know what he meant you would dig it out :)
It’s is in a video where he compares solar controllers, he has a Victron in there and I think 5 others. Can’t remember how long ago it was posted but should be able to find in my history if you can’t find it 👍
I did a search and I saw this link with the same question raised on his forum - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/w...he-epever-mppt-solar-charge-controller.20726/

There is no answer explaining why Will apparently says this, but the replies to the question are very much of the "can't see why not" variety and which I would tend to go along with actually.
 
I did a search and I saw this link with the same question raised on his forum - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/why-does-will-prowse-suggest-not-using-load-output-ports-on-the-epever-mppt-solar-charge-controller.20726/
There is no answer explaining why Will apparently says this, but the replies to the question are very much of the "can't see why not" variety and which I would tend to go along with actually.
That was quick lol, I knew it was right to ask you :)
Like I said it is the first (and only so far) time I have seen anyone say don’t use. Most of the manufacturers actually show something connected to load in their advertising blurb. It’s not something I have used to date so far
 
Hi, over a year ago I bought a Victron Smart Solar Controller MPPT 75/15 to use with an auxiliary solar panel I came by. As above see, and thanks to great advice by Wildebus and Maingate.

I just looked further into the app and settings for the Controller and was amazed to find there are a load of adjustable settings to make to adjust in accordance with your battery type. I’ve read the instructions more thoroughly now and am even more confused. I can’t even identify the type of battery to set. What a no hoper ! I’m hoping that what must be the default settings won’t have damaged my batteries.

On the app the battery type options are :-

AGM spiral cell

Gel Victron deep discharge 1

Gel Victron deep discharge 2

Gel Victron long life OPzV

PzS tubular plate traction 1

PzS tubular plate traction 2

PzS tubular plate traction 3

Smart lithium LifePO4

I don’t even know if the 1, 2 and refer the quantity of batteries connected or the battery type, I only know my batteries are definitely not Smart Lithium.

I have three times Yuasa L36-EFB (enhanced flooded batteries) connected. Any chance please, could anybody tell me which selection I should choose ?

Yuasa told me to use 14.4v for bulk charge, 13.8v for float, not to exceed 14.8v and not to allow to drop below 12.2v in use.

Any advice much appreciated

Pete D
 
If you go into settings ( small cog top right ) select battery, under battery preset select user defined and add the absorption and float values for your yuasa batteries.👍
 
Thanks Heppy I understand but I dont know which battery type to select drom the 8 options available as above as on the Controller under select battery.
You have the pre-defined options as you have already identified, but you also have another one - "user defined" - in which you put your own values and don't need to worry about which of the others to select.
Heppy is suggesting you use the "user defined" one and enter the values yuasa have given you - 14.4V for Absorption (they called it Bulk), 13.8V for float
 
Thank you, I just picked one as user defined and changed the voltages to suit what Yuasa told me. I didn't know if the selected battery type altered the charging regime or other stuff apart from just the voltages as well.
Sorry for delay in thanks away in Cornwall, hardly any internet. It's pouring down.
 

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